correctpaint

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Single stage urethane paint when sprayed properly comes out very glossy. If you buff it out then it cuts the gloss down and you get something closer to a factory paint look with all the advantages of modern.

BC/CC is just a deep gloss. It does not look right to me on the A knowing what the factory 'muddy' colored somewhat gloss look should be.

I used the term muddy because the tints were not as good as todays tints to the colors would also not be so perfect.

What it boils down to is most people do not really know the differences from original gloss or color. Do the car so it looks good for you. Personally I like a single stage paint that has been buffed as the best compromise using modern paints for an old feel. None of the BC/CC A's look right to me, just too much gloss and depth. Keep in mind my brother's A was painted with lacquer so I have an idea of factory gloss.

Agree 100% with the above. The wet look of urethane can be tempered to look much like the original lacquer by the way you buff it.

[Mitch//pa]

the shinier the better for me...

[lakeside]

This has been very helpful to hear every ones views. Thanks.

[Bob Bidonde]

Single stage urethane is much easier to repair than a clear coat finish.

At issue are the paint codes for Copra & Chickle Drab colors. Authentic color formulas for currently available paint systems are unknowns, and to the best of my knowledge, nobody with the original colors has had formulas made. The chips in the Model A paint books are said to be not correct.

[Dodge]

I'm still using Centari and really like the stuff. Been using it for 40yrs. It's getting hard to
get but they do have the correct formulas.
The look is in between lacquer and urethane.
As for Lacquer my father painted our Model T with nitrocellulose lacquer in 1952 and it
still looks awsome.

[RandyinUtah]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I used lacquer on my Town Sedan 40 years ago and it still looks good. Its very hard to find anymore in Utah. I have saved two quarts of the original paint and thinner just in case I ever have to repair it.

[RonC]

This company advertises Nitrocellulose lacquer paints for sale

http://www.hiberniaautorestorers.com...ve-laquers.php

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Lacquer is still available and sold in California, and PPG even still sells it under the line of Duracryl. Valparaiso, Rustoleum, Krylon, and others still sell lacquer to the general public in aerosol cans. I have never been able to find any governmental printed law that states it is banned. I suspect it was a "believable myth" that got started because paint jobbers did not want to stock another paint line in their store.

As for spraying lacquer, we still spray it ( legally ) in my shop, and I can tell you it is much more work to both spray and work post-spraying simply because it takes time for the shell to get hard. I will also comment that once you physically look at a lacquer-sprayed panel sitting next to a urethane-sprayed panel, the depth & texture are totally different between the two.

[JD1930A]

can you email me codes for lombard blue and the black that is used on the body as well as straw for the wheels.

I have a 1930 model A

Much appreciated [email protected]

[Tony Hillyard]

Originally Posted by lakeside

I'm painting a 31 Fordor ,ChicleDrab/Copra Drab. It will not be a body off resto.
Should it be painted with 1. single stage urethane or 2. base coat clear coat? Is one ''more correct'' than the other or doesn't it matter.? I've heard all the black should be single stage urethane for the deeper,richer color.
Any body men that specialize in A's have an opinion.Thank you.

Good Morning Everyone,
May I pick your brains please? I have just bought a 1928 Standard Roadster which needs to be painted. As far as I can tell she should be Niagara Blue (light). Has anyone a colour swatch I could look at please. I would like to get the colour as near as possible.
Thanks in advance, Tony Hillyard, Pleines Oeuvres, France.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

Good Morning Everyone,
May I pick your brains please? I have just bought a 1928 Standard Roadster which needs to be painted. As far as I can tell she should be Niagara Blue (light). Has anyone a colour swatch I could look at please. I would like to get the colour as near as possible.
Thanks in advance, Tony Hillyard, Pleines Oeuvres, France.

Tony
Get your hands on the official paint and refinish Guide which has all the paint chips in it. Then have the chip digitally scanned at the paint supplier (jobber) and Walla your set ...they can also tell you the percentage of match... I did the ford maroon and got a 100% color match

[Mike V. Florida]

I also believe your best bet for a more original colr and look that can be done by most body shops in single stage.

[Tony Hillyard]

Thanks very much for that Mitch//pa. That's a really good idea. Next question.. where would I buy that please?

[Tony Hillyard]

I do feel a right wally!!! Thanks again Mitch//pa. I had another look through all my Model A books and I have that book "in stock".

Thanks again everyone.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

Thanks very much for that Mitch//pa. That's a really good idea. Next question.. where would I buy that please?

Contact these guys for help in getting PPG paint France.

PPG Coatings  


Address: 7 Allée de la Plaine, 76700 Gonfreville-l'Orcher, France
Phone:+33 2 35 53 54 00

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

I do feel a right wally!!! Thanks again Mitch//pa. I had another look through all my Model A books and I have that book "in stock".

Thanks again everyone.

The chips in the book are real paint, not paper so if your book is old I would buy a new one to make sure the sample did not fade...just a thought. Good luck

[inex01]

Originally Posted by Tinbasher

Hi Lakeside! First question is where are you. If your in a climate that doesn't change to much then Lacquer is fine. I'm north of Buffalo NY. about 120 miles. Here the change in weather is extreme so Lacquer only lasts about 3 years and starts to break down. Single stage Urethane is the way to go for the fenders. Base clear is nice for two-toning as you can spray both colours and then clear coat the complete job. Your best bet is to talk to the painter that going to spray the car and find out what he likes to work with. This car was done in Base/Clear in the colours your talking about using.

John Poole Body and Paint 45 years and counting!!

Your car looks GREAT!