Intake x4

[3W Hank]

On a more racy look, x4 intake.

I had a thread on my Thickstun PM7 that got 2 carbs on them now ( might be only for ’get happy’ display ) even if I think it was a product after the war, not pre-war.

I’m not build a ’true’ performer and like the cubic that was used 46-48 and idea is a radical street/dragrace coupe.
So cubic will not be +300 but say around 275.
Intresting thought, se below from myflathesdford.
Again the Edelbrock Super ( x2 ) intake comes up.
I know it might be a good intake as in my case more mild street use ( but this car will not be used much or long trips ) so more a city driver, I even concider run on race fuel of smell.
But on drags, well ;- )) a Lincoln 39 gearbox and a std no diff 37 rearend and a 34 TQ tube and Taiwan made 7.50 tires…say I don’t need wheelie bars.
Its all for ’rew’, sound or sometimes in gears, but change slow.
I has now 2 Stromberg 97 and 2 LZ carbs. That makes up 4 carbs.
Shore I can try find 2 extra LZ or std 97 and leave the LZ on the Thickstun.
As I love the 4 in a row and now has 4 carbs - what intake was used and was produced before 49 ?

I guess four 97’s is to much at this cubics but I know Sweden hot rodders in Sweden used it on the 50’s and in those days its was daily driven sportcars and no strokers, and they had Porvin 3/4 cams etc.
Me I has the eliminator 425.
I seen the Edelbrock or was there other cool x4 intakes ?
Ideas.

From ; Myflatheadford.com
Bill Bently Q&A ( 1999 )

From my experience I recommend using 2X2. A 3X2 is really neat looking and can only be beat by a 4X2, but could be a drive-ability problem. They’re for Bonneville, drags, or circle track in my opinion. If you use an Offy 3X2 you should use Stombergs since good old Uncle Fred (Offenhauser) designed his 3 carb manifold using them only. (Holleys front screw in the air horn hit the carb in front of it. Some guys just grind the screw off.) Other 3X2 manifolds I’ve worked on don’t have this problem. Anyway, I got out the old pocket spiral note book I’ve entered notes, spec’s, etc. in since 1955 or thereabouts and checked on carb cfm’s and a formula to determine total carburetor cfm for street. Remember cfm is only concerned with bore, stroke, number of cylinders, and rpm’s. Nothing else affects cfm. total cfm = (rpm)(CID) divided by 3456 For an example I’ll assume the max rpm you’ll turn this is 3800. Your engine will have 276 cubes. Then: cfm =(3800)(276) divided by 3456 = 303 cfm. This is what I’d recommend for the street.

I’d use a 2X2 ‘racing’ (or ‘super’) type manifold… one that the carbs are located directly over the intake ports. You’ll have to run an offset generator on a head. They will give you a good 4% increase in power over the ‘street’ manifold. The street manifolds have the carbs located high and close together so you can run a generator in front. The long runners make for very smooth throttle response but squelch power somewhat.


The Thickstun hi-rise (street) was one of the best in producing smoothness and making the best horsepower. And I would not run a manifold on the street that doesn’t have heat risers and an equalizer chamber. Now you’re wondering what the different carbs have for cfm aren’t you? First I’ll list the Stombergs…. The model 81 is rated at 135 cfm. The model 48 is rated at 150 cfm. The model 97 is rated at 135 cfm. The Chandler-Grove/Holley cfm’s…. The model 92 is rated at 142 cfm. The model 94 is rated at 155 cfm. The model 8BA is rated at 162 cfm. The model ECG is rated at 185 cfm. 3X2 manifolds should use progressive linkage unless you’re a carb freak like I am. They make determining jetting a lot easier. I use only Stromberg 97’s for ALL multi-carb installations.