The Ford Barn

Dbbc · 01-30-2015, 02:42 PM

Still trying to get my car started after the car only started, ran rough for a few seconds and then died.
I have change both plates in the distributor as well as the condenser, new points, new body, cap and rotor.
Howeverthe car still does not start. Not even an hint of the cylinder firing.
I have not got the chance to see if there are sparks out of the spark plug. However when I was trying to time the car, I use a 6v light bulb to check the opening of the point during the timing and no matter what I did (key on or off, point closed or open) the light was always on.

Could it be that the wires between the plates is shorting? Any suggestions as why the light stays always on?

Also where the condenser get tighten to the lower plate (hole on the driver side) do I need a insulated washer?

Thank you for all the suggestions you may have and I will try to get to the bottom of it on Saturday.

01-30-2015, 02:42 PM	#1
Dbbc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Honolulu Posts: 116	Distributor questions Still trying to get my car started after the car only started, ran rough for a few seconds and then died. I have change both plates in the distributor as well as the condenser, new points, new body, cap and rotor. Howeverthe car still does not start. Not even an hint of the cylinder firing. I have not got the chance to see if there are sparks out of the spark plug. However when I was trying to time the car, I use a 6v light bulb to check the opening of the point during the timing and no matter what I did (key on or off, point closed or open) the light was always on. Could it be that the wires between the plates is shorting? Any suggestions as why the light stays always on? Also where the condenser get tighten to the lower plate (hole on the driver side) do I need a insulated washer? Thank you for all the suggestions you may have and I will try to get to the bottom of it on Saturday.