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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 373
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I posted a few weeks back about stainless brake tube that I could get to seat, 4 out of 5 tubes had bad fittings. I sent pics of the flares and they said there was nothing wrong but could not come up with an answer. Spoke to the asst. manager and he gave me a return number, so I sent them back cost 12.00. Well somebody turned the box away because it did not have the right r/a number on it. So I called and got a new r/a number, and sent them back again 12.00. They received them last week, so I called today, I was told there was nothing wrong with them, even with the shavings under flares, uneven flares. They would not replace them and refunded my money. 163.00 with shipping plus 24.00 shipping them back twice. They are refunding the price without any shipping, and they take out 20% restocking, so I am getting 114.00 back. I am out 73.00 because they do shoddy work to say the least.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,024
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As I also posted a couple weeks ago if you still want to go this route try Classic Tube in Lancaster New York. They have regular steel bolt on lines or for a little more stainless,I have put on three sets of their stainless steel lines,no problems.
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"Never complain,never explain"... Henry Ford II |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 373
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No I am done with stainless, classic tube is almost double the price,but I guess you get what you pay for. I bought steel lines from napa, a flaring tool online and I am going to do my own. INLINE TUBE SELLS JUNK
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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There is no advantage to stainless line on a restored car that only gets driven on nice days. Its harder to flare and form
I've always made new lines from bulk stock from napa. Once you get the hang od flaring and bending its easy. I salvaged a set of lines off a 40 ford along time ago I use for patterns. Bend them up on a table and tweek them when installing. The trick is buy a good flaring tool and bender. I like imperial eastman. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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There (in my mind ) is only one place where it makes any sense to use stainless brake line.
In open wheel street rod type cars where you see the lines.
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DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 373
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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After you make the new lines. Sand them lightly and clean them real well. Then buy a spray can of galv-brite zinc paint. Will last a long time. Its what fence guys use on galvanized pipe when welded at the joint for making gates ect. Just don't breath it
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 504
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Another option that looks interesting is Cunifer lines (copper nickel alloy). Available from Fedhill: http://www.fedhillusa.com/.
It may be available other places, not sure though. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 2,708
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As said the cheap flaring tools never work, better to spend the $ and get a good one straight up.
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"Came too close to dying to stop living now!" |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Eastern, CT
Posts: 548
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I've gotten the copper nickel alloy tubing at Autozone before. I like it because it comes in 25' rolls.
Red |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oakdale,Ca
Posts: 1,323
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The issue I've with SS, is the ability to seat the flare, SS is so dang tough, I wonder if you had the same issues?
In fact my flaring tool will not make a double flare in SS, hence why I stick to steel. Best of luck. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeast Mo
Posts: 62
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I have used stainless tubing from Pure Choice Motorsports out of Az. It's pricey, but top quality aircraft grade. It is annealed so it flares easily. I use an Imperial 37 degree flaring tool.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Highland,MI
Posts: 1,196
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Thats pretty sad Coupe,Not to hard to do,just did my 5 lines for about 50 bucks. These lines are coated. I used coat hangers to mock up bends then tweaked when installing. Took me about a day to bend and install. Good luck.
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 794
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 373
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They spray the salt brine before it snows on the interstates, and during the snow they put salt and it lasts for days, it coats everything. I live about 1/8 mile from interstate 81. And our local townships use salt
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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Here in northern delaware the state panics at the first threat of snow and coats every road in brine and salt. Then when the snow doesn't come evey car truck bus is solid white so I know what he is talking about. I see a lot of late model 4X4 trucks rotted out
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lancaster PA
Posts: 542
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Seems readily available now, I bought some at a local parts house. Jegs has it mail order. I used it on a SUV to replace a rusted line, very easy to work with, softer than steel line,
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 21
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Use the stainless with a suitable double-flaring tool, annealing the ends before flaring.
A butane torch (around $10 at Harbor Freight) will anneal stainless nicely. |
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oakdale,Ca
Posts: 1,323
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#20 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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Quote:
Where you at/from..nothing with your avatar? I'd guess to make a statement like this, that you do not live where salt is used extensively..as Coupes does! Where do you think all that salt goes when the snow melts Hint not far from where it was put ! Ever see the indigenous animals on and alongside the roads....eating salt? Ever wonder why so many dead anmals along those roads? Well that salt, year after year..doesn't know any better than to stay out of a car...rain/shine/snow !
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