Head Puller

[36tbird]

Sorry, I don't have a picture right now, but I scored a head puller for a flathead.

I saw one of these things in an antique store in Bandera, Texas a few years back. I looked the thing over but could not figure out what in the world it was for. Only later did I see one owned by someone in my EFV-8 club. I never made it back to get it.

But, I stumbled on one for sale on the 'bay last week and scored getting it. Now I have some more questions.

I assumed that this would be a Manzel or KRW tool, but I cannot find anything stamped on it except "Made in the USA." Anyone know who made these?

For those unfamiliar, the thing clamps to a head gripping it from the top and bottom sides. Then, there are two bolts that screw down onto two of the studs to lift the head. Given that you cannot attach this in the center of a 59A head due to the water outlet, are you supposed to have two and grip the head one on each side? Or, do you just break one side loose then move to the other side of the water outlet if necessary?

I did a search of Manzel, Buffalo Tool and KRW but could not find a mention of these head pullers. If someone has a pic, please post it. If nothing comes up, I will take a pic and get it posted a little later for those who have never seen one of these. Thanks, Lou

[G.M.]

These are OK for steel heads but I never needed one for steel heads. On aluminum heads if they are really stuck these will break more heads then they will remove. The only way I found to remove tight aluminum heads is with a thin wall core type drill. This has a thin wall, the ID is slightly larger than the stud and the OD removes very little from the stud hole in the head. This material between the stud and head is what locks the head on. Removeing the studs also works but breaking them off creates larger problems. G,M,

[36tbird]

Thanks, G.M. I should have elaborated in my first post. I don't really think I will have use for the thing. I am just enthralled that I found one and got it. It is more of a novelty for my flathead tool collection.

[jimTN]

Home Depot is not stocking hole drills but jumps from three eight to one half. Guess you could use the one half and trash the head.

[Kerk]

I have a pair of what I think you are describing and am a tool nut. Bought at a swap meet years ago & cleaned up & painted and never used them. Just collecting dust in my collection of Ford tools. I wish I could post a picture. Maybe if you do I will know and respond. kc

[bbrocksr]

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I've got a pair of them,They came from my dad's shop when I bought all the tools and equipment back in the 60s. They are in the old Snap-on catalogs.
I watched yours on Ebay but didn't bid.
Bill

[36tbird]

Hmmmm, so it looks like they did come in pairs so that you could put one on each side of the center water outlet.

To Jim, ain't it infuriating how HD and Lowe's stop carrying some tools once they drive the local hardware store that did out of bidness?

[36tbird]

Here's some pics for today's "how to" section.

[38 coupe]

I have used a pair that I borrowed and they worked well (this was an engine with stock iron heads). If anyone has a pair they want to sell, p.m. me.

[rotorwrench]

I remeber seeing a home made set up on the HAMB that was a large rectangular piece of thick plate steel that was drilled to bolt into the four 14MM spark plug bores with specially made bolt adapters. It was then drilled to align with studs in key locations so as to screw jack the assembly and head away from the studs. With enough stud locations covered to keep from doing damage to the deck surface, this would probably work pretty well. If a person put too much pressure in the wrong place it could do some damage on the those really stuck mothers especially in the center of the block where they are usually cracked anyway.

All mine are 8BA with bolts so I've never had much problems with this. Those old aluminum ones could be a real b!tch though.

[35 coupe]

I had never tried this, but an old timer told me if you can roll the engine over by hand, soak around each stud with penetrating oil, then take out the first and last spark plug on that side and take a length of 3/8 or 1/2 inch rope, feed one end in the first plug hole and the other end in the last plug hole till it fills up the cylinder and crank the motor by hand. He claims it will work every time. he told me let the pistons push it up, he said it will pop every time.

[36tbird]

Should work so long as the old motor will turn over.

[rotorwrench]

An old friend of mine would have squirted some gas in an open cylinder and start throwing lit matches at it till it popped. He was always looking to blow something up. He swore by this method to seat tire beads on the rim. I usually ducked out before he got ahold of the match book.

[AlDeBear]

rotorwrench, The image of you in your last sentence is just too funny! I read, or saw, somewhere about a guy with a flat tire on a VW in Mexico and the "garage" not only seated the tire bead on the rim this way but inflated it as well. They didn't have a compressor or a pump!
Reminded of this quote;

"Don't be a show-off. Never be too proud to turn back. There are old pilots and bold pilots, but no old, bold pilots."
--- E. Hamilton Lee

Larry

[russcc]

Using ether starting fluid as a field expediant is standard practice ion the trucking industry. I like the rope trick.