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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: old orchard beach maine
Posts: 64
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Been having some issues with overheating after getting my woodies out of storage...
Been flushing it out with clean water, but decided to use some Blue Devil coolant flush.. this is what came out! will be repeating until it is clear. |
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 593
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Quote:
something like "Evapo-Rust" could be helpful, although i have never used it.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,133
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I bought a good running '51 Merc engine. Before I used it, I ran a couple of regular flushes on it, after which I ran a couple of Rust-911 (Same as Evaporust, but cheaper) flushes. I filled the engine, ran it long enough to get warm, and let it sit a day or two. I followed this up with a regular flush. These are the results.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Not to sound like a broken record by preaching their products again, but check out the stuff by No-Rosion. They make a coolant cleaner that will etch & coat the cast iron and prevent the coolant from rusting the block from the inside.
I've been using their products for years and use water in my cooling system. I know it works for I need to drain my system out each winter due to having no heat in the garage. Water comes out looking exactly like it went it. Highly, highly recommend their products. https://www.norosion.com/tech_coolant.htm |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,619
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I remember my dad using a product called "Gillet's Lye" to try flushing out the flathead cooling system on the 46 Ford truck. I can't comment on the effectiveness of it but as I kid I liked the labels on the tins. https://static.grainews.ca/wp-conten...llett-lye-.jpg
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https://www.youtube.com/user/roosty6/videos |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2024
Location: California
Posts: 121
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,213
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The major item to look for is rust blocking the radiator tubes. I know it's hard to see and nearly impossible, especially on a radiator with a baffle near the fill neck. One thing you can do is a flow test. remove the lower hoses, take a garden hose and start filling the radiator. Get a good visual on the rate of flow coming out the bottom compared to if and how quickly the radiator "backs up" while doing this.
A good thing to have done is have a radiator shop "rod out" or clean these tubes. They can un-solder the tanks and have a go at it. Having said that, finding a competent radiator repair shop is getting hard to do. If not nearly impossible. Sad times we are in when you can't find a radiator shop. There was a shop near me that had a sign. "Jimmy's Radiator, A Good Place To Take A Leak". All they did was sell new plastic radiators. Pathetic. I changed the name to protect the innocent as they say on Dragnet. |
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