Rear hub removal blues

[40cpe]

One of my rear brakes on the '38 started dragging/not releasing all the way. I dedided to tackle it today since it is a little less humid. I had bought a Mitchell puller several years ago when I bought the car and used it to pull the drums and service the bearings. It worked fine then. Today I kept tightening it without the hub moving when I discovered this. I don't know what to do now. I've been looking for a KR Wilson knock-off and don't see any for sale. At least the groove in the hub doesn't appear to be damaged. Any thoughts?

[34fordy]

Vintage Precision makes a very good "knock off" no pun intended!

[flatford8]

https://vintageprecision.com/product...ers/index.html
They list for $200 on their website……Money well spent I think………Mark

[cas3]

Looks like you may have goofed up the threads too, note the nut sitting crooked.

They make a thread chaser for this, it opens up so you start from the inside.

I may have a pic

[ford38v8]

From your picture, I can't tell exactly what you've got going on there, but it does appear that your hub has come loose from the axle a fraction of an inch. If that's the case, and you have previously released the parking brake, loosened the shoe adjustment all the way, and released the brake fluid (I see that you have juice brakes), then perhaps your drum has an internal worn ridge upon which the shoe is hung up, or when the shoes were installed, the retainer clips were left off, allowing the shoe to bind. Upon removal of the tool you have installed, and then knocking the hub with a mallet while wiggling it around, you may get lucky if the hub is actually released from the axle. If it isn't, then the KRW type tool is the only way to go. All failing and your shoes are hung up, the red wrench will be the tool of last resort.

[Newc]

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V8 club member had the top inner edge of the key bite into his drum and jam-had to destroy the hub. Recommend that the top inner edge of the key be rounded off.. Newc

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Newc

V8 club member had the top inner edge of the key bite into his drum and jam-had to destroy the hub. Recommend that the top inner edge of the key be rounded off.. Newc

That could happen if the key was too long in the first place, jamming itself up the ramp by tightening the axle nut. It should never become a problem if the key is the correct length and installed properly.

[40cpe]

Thanks for directing me to Vintage Precision, I didn't remember that name.

The hub hasn't moved. I released the brake adjustment and the drum turns free. Parking brake cable is free and loose. The brake line was loosened to relieve any pressure.

cas3, The nut isn't crooked, the washer is crooked against the hub making it look that way.

When I get a good puller, would a little heat on the area over the axle be harmful? Would that be too close to the seal?

Releasing the adjustment stopped the dragging but I was trying to get to the brakes to understand why it wasn't releasing all the way to begin with. I might put the wheel back on and adjust the brake and drive it to see what happens.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

One of my rear brakes on the '38 started dragging/not releasing all the way. I dedided to tackle it today since it is a little less humid. I had bought a Mitchell puller several years ago when I bought the car and used it to pull the drums and service the bearings. It worked fine then. Today I kept tightening it without the hub moving when I discovered this. I don't know what to do now. I've been looking for a KR Wilson knock-off and don't see any for sale. At least the groove in the hub doesn't appear to be damaged. Any thoughts?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by cas3

Looks like you may have goofed up the threads too, note the nut sitting crooked.

They make a thread chaser for this, it opens up so you start from the inside.

I may have a pic

[Tony, NY]

Did you "strike the center boss with a hammer" to break the hub loose? That's what the instructions for that puller reads.

[40cpe]

I did hit it soundly with a 2 pound hammer, but I didn't put the 8 pounder on it. I was concerned about ruining the axle end.

[Tony, NY]

It's been a while, but I think I used a 3lb short handle sledge hammer and a good whack.

[Newc]

heat?? Newc

[Flathead Fever]

Years ago, I bought a repro KRW rear hub puller. That tool works like a dream; it's one of my favorite tools. I had heard they stopped making them, they were beautifully made and came in a little wooden case. I'm lucky to have it even if it is a repro. I've never seen an original one for sale. I had a '33 1 1/2-ton truck that takes that same style of puller, only larger. I never did get the rear drums off of that truck. I sold it and bought a project '34 1 1/2 truck, in 1934 they changed the axles on the big trucks, there just like a modern 3/4 to 1 ton truck with floater axles and are really easy to take out to get the drums off.

[john in illinois]

I have the kr reproduction puller. I tighten to what seems maximum and sometimes it will pop off after sitting for a while. If not I use a oxygen/aceta
torch until it comes loose. hammer on end helps too.

I would never press on a nut threaded on. The threads take all the force.
Puller is made to center on axle.

John

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I would never press on a nut threaded on. The threads take all the force.
Puller is made to center on axle.

John

I am not disputing what you said John,---- But I remember that the Vintage Precision puller directions tell you to back off the threaded cap 1/2 turn. I do not think the KR Wilson reproduction says to do that. I do not know what the original Winfield direction said. The axle threads on a Ford are in excess of grade 8 according to the torque specs allowed. If the protective cap covers enough threads there is probably no damage to them. IMHO. I made my own puller and I back off my thread cap 1 flat or 1/6th turn.

[Zeke3]

There is an axle puller for sale on the Early Ford website right now, I think it is the Vintage Precision model.

I have used a club member’s Winfield hub puller and the cap is not threaded, it just slips over the end of the axle.

Good luck with your project.

[40cpe]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I have emailed the seller of the Vintage Precision puller. I also googled for instructions on removing an early ford hub and it suggested mild heat if needed. i don't know where Google got its information. I understand the concern about distorting the threads. The Vintage Precision instructins say to screw the thrust plate nut on until it bottoms out and then back off 1/2 turn, so it sounds like it uses the threads.

[Kurt in NJ]

Always jack up the other side wheel off the ground