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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Holmen,Wisconsin
Posts: 1,054
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I feel the need to ask my Dumb Question of the day. Regarding metric ring packs for the V8s, is what's metric the ring widths- 1.5, 1.5, and 3.0, or are the bores going to be metric, not the usual .030, .060, etc, over bores? I suspect I know but have to ask. Thanks.
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I went, I saw, I bought the T shirt 51 Ford Deluxe Tudor 32 Ford roadster 39 Mercury Towncar |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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Ring width. Building a 4.250 stroker with metric rings as we speak.
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Holmen,Wisconsin
Posts: 1,054
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Quote:
OK, glad I asked. What did you take the bore out to and whose pistons did you use? Thanks Tony.
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I went, I saw, I bought the T shirt 51 Ford Deluxe Tudor 32 Ford roadster 39 Mercury Towncar |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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3 5/16 bore. Ross. Waited almost 5 months to have them made.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: middle of Iowa
Posts: 1,001
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Are there spacers to use metric rings in a standard groove?
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Holmen,Wisconsin
Posts: 1,054
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A bit of a wait for sure, but isn't great they can make what you ask for?
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I went, I saw, I bought the T shirt 51 Ford Deluxe Tudor 32 Ford roadster 39 Mercury Towncar |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 4,043
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They have way less friction and seat almost immediately. I have the in all 3 of the engines I built, and they are in the Ardun engine in the car I bought.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 734
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The circle track guys use a 1mm, 1mm, 2mm packs. Engine builders claim they hold their shape to the bore very well. Don't know if they are available for flathead pistons in those thicknesses, but probably in the 1.5,1.5,3mm sets. It would take a piston special made with that ring gland. Bored & Stroked could chime in, I believe he uses them from Ross.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,202
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Still don't understand about metric ring packs. So now Shoebox doesn't have to be the 'dumb question guy', as I still don't get it. Are they thin rings stacked up in the lands? But they'd still need to be sized for our bores.
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 734
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It's the thickness... you need special pistons to accept the thinner ring gland.
https://www.dragzine.com/tech-storie...-piston-rings/ |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 734
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Another good thread...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263235 |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,644
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,202
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Thanks for those links Big D, I have now entered the 21st century on the use of metric and thin ring packs. With my 40 mph speed limit here I still feel ok with the cast iron hastings in my recent 276 build, but those are some sizeable advantages I just read about. Yes, 7.5 hp for 200 bucks coupled to less wear is a winner.
__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,558
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Less friction drag is the point, no?
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,202
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Little less weight for the inertia change up, less wear on parts because of less drag too. Worth reading.
__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 734
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They stay conformed to the bore better too. I have only heard about them used in performance builds, no idea on longevity as in 10s of thousands of miles. The wait time will probably discourage most.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,644
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3 ring pistons as well...less drag...
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,135
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I am very skeptical there is much of any horsepower to be had below 3,000 rpm from metric rings in a flathead. The Engine Masters show did a back to back dyno comparison where they took a small block, tested it, swapped otherwise identical pistons with metric rings, and tested it again. There was no measurable difference below 4,000 rpm. For members who want the most out of their engine way up in the rev range, then metric rings are an improvement. For members who don't drive that fast, or who like me who install overdrive and simply up-shift, there is little point to spending all the extra money.
Here is the link to the back-to-back standard vs metric ring test video, nice comparison graph is at 8:40 in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29IWc-zrv8 |
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,139
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You only need to run the top 3 rings on 4-ring pistons. I've done it a couple of times with no problems. Current (hell, 50 year old) ring technology has made the fourth ring superfluous. Also, the extra cost and trouble running metric rings aren't worth it unless you're seriously into racing. If I had extra time and extra money, I'd run 'em, but everything seems to be in short supply today.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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What is also important is to consider the diameter of the metric rings - before you bore your engine or order pistons. I typically determine the bore diameter that corresponds to the available ring diameters and ring types I want to use, then custom order my pistons. If you speak with the application engineers at the piston manufacturer, they will be able to tell you which types of rings they can supply for a range of diameters.
Sometimes the diameters align fairly well with what we're used too ---> 3 5/16 for example --> 3.3125. is pretty close to 84 mm -> 3.307 or 84.5 mm -> 3.327. Depending on the ring manufacturer, they may supply rings that are millimeters in thickness, but with inches-based diameters. One of the nice things about looking for rings first is that you may find a ring package that gives you an overbore that is less than you would have had with typical inches-based ring packages: Example: 85 mm -> 3.346 inches. This is about 1/2 way between a 3 5/16 bore and a 3 3/8 bore. Also, there are many types of ring packages --> cast, steel, moly coated, gapless oil rings, etc.. There are many ring options if you look at catalogs and associated applications --> street, performance, boosted, racing, etc.. Here is a Total Seal catalog - has some good information: TotalSealRingCatalog.pdf |
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