Clutch adjustment problem

[California Charlie]

I just finished a complete clutch overhaul with a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing etc.

With everything together I'm finding that I cannot get the clutch adjusting mechanism to reach from the clutch pedal to the actuating lever that comes out from the bell housing.

The throwout bearing appears to be right up against the pressure plate.

Am I missing something that has to do with the transmission gearing (I have the shift tower off of the transmission.

Can someone tell me what I may me missing.

I appreaciate whatever help you can give to me.

[nkaminar]

I have had this problem: There is a fork that pushes on the housing for the throwout bearing. If the fork is not seated properly in the housing it can cause the problem you are describing.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by California Charlie

I just finished a complete clutch overhaul with a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing etc.

With everything together I'm finding that I cannot get the clutch adjusting mechanism to reach from the clutch pedal to the actuating lever that comes out from the bell housing.

The throwout bearing appears to be right up against the pressure plate.

Am I missing something that has to do with the transmission gearing (I have the shift tower off of the transmission.

Can someone tell me what I may me missing.

I appreaciate whatever help you can give to me.

I just looked at your pictures closely. Like nkaminar said, check to make sure the forks are in the throwout bearing carrier slots correctly. I also see you have the new style clutch shaft arm on there, which is longer than the stock arm by about half an inch. When installed properly, the arm should be sticking almost straight back, like toward the back of the car, when the throwout bearing is up against the pressure plate fingers. When you pull the clutch pedal back as far as it will go, the trunnion should reach that arm, no problem. If not, a couple options-

1- Get longer threaded trunnion.
2- Readjust the pressure plate fingers (I did a video showing how).

[Synchro909]

The fork inside the bell housing that pushes the thrust bearing against the pressure plate may not be seated in the correct location on the bearing. There is a step and if you are on the wrong place, what you describe is possible. A peek through the inspection cover will reveal all.
I'll let you work out how I come to know that.

[mercman from oz]

[Randall]

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Looks like the wrong clutch arm to me or its aftermarket, also you will need to lift up the lever because the throwout bearing spring is holding the bearing all the way back so you need to use channel locks to lift the lever because of the spring pressure and insert pin

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Randall

Looks like the wrong clutch arm to me or its aftermarket, also you will need to lift up the lever because the throwout bearing spring is holding the bearing all the way back so you need to use channel locks to lift the lever because of the spring pressure and insert pin

Charlie said the throw out bearing is right up against the pressure plate now, so the lever cannot be rotated enough to engage the pin. As stated by others, the fork may not be seated properly in the throw out bearing carrier (hub).

[Y-Blockhead]

Are the pressure plate fingers adjusted correctly? Looks like the throwout bearing is too far back to me.

[ratmother]

Charlie - these photos show position of clutch fork arm with pedal back and throwout bearing held against it’s sleeve by bearing return spring.

[California Charlie]

Thanks very much to all that responded to my problem with the clutch adjusting mechanism that I'm having.

I've looked over things that have been suggested.

The fork arm appears to be positioned and seated properly.

I was extremely careful when I adjusted the pressure plate fingers during its installation.

After scratching my head, I've decided to lengthen the trunnion (as the MAFCA Technical Director suggested) and see how that works.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by California Charlie

After scratching my head, I've decided to lengthen the trunnion (as the MAFCA Technical Director suggested) and see how that works.

You shouldn't have to do that. I am running the same londer clutch arm with no problems. My adjustment is in the middle. There has to be something amiss.

I can't believe someone suggested to lengthen the rod. That is just a bandaid IMO.

Left field, but is the disk installed the correct way? You should be able to tell by looking in the inspection cover.

[Marshall V. Daut]

In your first two photos, it doesn't look to me as though the clutch pedal has been pulled all the way to the back of its travel. Either tie it there or have a helper hold the pedal in its rearmost position. Then line up the trunnion hole with the clutch release arm.
I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted. You cannot do this by hand unless the trunnion is way out too far. The higher up the trunion is screwed into the threaded trunnion nut, the higher up you will have to jack up the release arm. If you have run out of threads on the trunnion shaft, something is wrong with the clutch adjustment or the clutch fingers have collapsed.
Marshall

[Y-Blockhead]

Snyder's has a tool to help turn the clutch arm into position, https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9059&cat=41753 but I use the replacement trunion that does not need to be removed to adjust the clutch. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9058&cat=41664

[nkaminar]

OK, now that the fork not sitting correctly in the throwout bearing housing has been eliminated, the remaining question is the clutch fingers. I would like to know how California Charlie adjusted them. Was it done on a bench or with the pressure plate and clutch disk mounted on the flywheel? Because of the leverage system, little bit of difference there could have a big effect on where the lever ends up.

The exact distance of the fingers from the reference plane is not important but they all must be adjusted to be equal within 0.002. So the fingers could be re adjusted closer to the flywheel.

Otherwise, double check everything else. Are the pivot point ends of the clutch pressure plate fingers in the right position? The look funny to me in the photo like they are in the wrong position.

[GPierce]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

In your first two photos, it doesn't look to me as though the clutch pedal has been pulled all the way to the back of its travel. Either tie it there or have a helper hold the pedal in its rearmost position. Then line up the trunnion hole with the clutch release arm.
I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted. You cannot do this by hand unless the trunnion is way out too far. The higher up the trunion is screwed into the threaded trunnion nut, the higher up you will have to jack up the release arm. If you have run out of threads on the trunnion shaft, something is wrong with the clutch adjustment or the clutch fingers have collapsed.
Marshall

Ditto on “ I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted”. The return spring on the clutch throw out bearing is stronger than I am laying under the car.

[Benson]

1. My car is not a show car so I do not worry about paint on lever.

I use a large pair of Vise Grips on the part of lever where the shaft goes through (near the pin). If Vice Grip leverage is not long enough I have used a piece of EMT (Electric Metallic Tube) Conduit pipe to extent the leverage.

2. I do not remember ever installing the clutch release FORK backwards (Maybe I just do not remember) BUT:

After looking at a working clutch throw-out bearing with flywheel and flywheel housing removed:


If the clutch release FORK is installed backwards on the shaft, the FORK is moved forward about 3/8ths inch or so and the angle on the fork where it pushes the throw-out bearing carrier is changed also.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

In your first two photos, it doesn't look to me as though the clutch pedal has been pulled all the way to the back of its travel. Either tie it there or have a helper hold the pedal in its rearmost position. Then line up the trunnion hole with the clutch release arm.
I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted. You cannot do this by hand unless the trunnion is way out too far. The higher up the trunion is screwed into the threaded trunnion nut, the higher up you will have to jack up the release arm. If you have run out of threads on the trunnion shaft, something is wrong with the clutch adjustment or the clutch fingers have collapsed.
Marshall

After another look at the photos, I think Marshall is on the money. I hold the pedal up with an old octo strap around it and up to the steering wheel.

[California Charlie]

UPDATE:

I put a jack, with a piece of wood, underneath the clutch actuating arm coming out from the bell housing.

As I was using the jack to lift the actuator arm I looked through the open bell housing inspection area to see what was happening.

Before I wss able to reach the point of inserting the clevis pin in the trunnion the pilot bearing stared to firmly press against the pressure plate fingers.

The fork rounded part is pushing against the pilot bearing and not the flat part. Has the fork been correcrtly installed? Does it need tgo be reversed?

If the fork positioning is okay, should I just continue to use the jack to get to the point where I can insert the clevis pin into the trunnion?

[California Charlie]

MORE UPDATE:

Looking at the actuating lever coming out freom the bell housing from above, it is installed in a downward position. Should it be rotated and turned updward? Is this what my whole problem issue is all about?

[1955cj5]

Here is a picture of mine. I hope it helps..

Did you replace the clutch shaft or any other parts besides the clutch, pp and bearing?

Was it working before?