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#381 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 305
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Sorted ring & pinions for upcoming binge rear end assembly.
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#382 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,644
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#383 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 594
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removed OEM distributor in my new-to-me 1941 convertible, then installed new points. was a bit surprised that NAPA had a set in stock. ...found it difficult to get a large enough gap in them. will reinstall today.
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#384 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: iowa
Posts: 334
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replaced some slightly seeping rubber fuel line and filter to fuel pump. Tom.
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#385 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 950
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I got busy in the shop today. Adjusted the brakes, checked all the fluids and greased the old gal. Aired up the tires, too. Not having a lift and getting up and down isn't as much "fun" as it used to be! Went to a local show about 30 miles away yesterday and hope to go to another nearby tomorrow.
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#386 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: iowa
Posts: 334
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#387 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,200
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Short Road Test to the Waters Edge Golf Course in Worth Illinois around 4 pm 5/26.
First trest of transmission and ignition repairs . Going further than I care to walk back home. Wish me luck. If it makes it 20 miles it is good for a 100 miles. |
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#388 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 305
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The choke knob on my '41 Merc stuck out from the dash when pushed all the way in (choke full open). I disconnected the connection on the carb and pulled the rod out of the rubber coupling. I heated up the fitting that went in the coupling and worked the rod out. After some careful measuring I cut one inch off the rod, heated the fitting again and tapped the rod home. Another heating and swaged the fitting with a chisel. Not sure of the effectiveness of the last operation, but I could not easily separate the two.
If I had to do over I would have simply measured how proud the knob was from the dash. Duh!
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TomC750 1949 8NV8 Ford tractor 1930 1 Ton White 1941 Mercury Sedan Coupe |
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#389 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,200
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Update First long(?) trip was failure. But I did make it home. Another Electrical Problem.
Let car sit for a day or so. Spent the day planning my attack. Decided to start with the easy stuff first. Has a coil adaptor so i started with the condensor first. Noticed the end was frayed so i replaced the end, Amazing fixed the issue. Made it to the Frankfort Illinois Cruise night on Monday June 2, So far so good. Happy Motoring! |
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#390 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 572
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slowforty,
Depending on your route, that is between 14 and 18 miles round trip. If you can make it that far, surely the '40 can make it another 160 to Springfield! You have 19 days to work out any bugs. Ken Kn
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https://www.nirgv8.org |
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#391 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Forney, Tex.
Posts: 158
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Drove my '33 BB out back of the house and used air from my large airplane oxygen tank to air up a flat tractor tire.
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#392 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 305
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Installed new gas pedal. But first I needed to drill mounting holes in the pedal. I was surprised they were not there. Careful measuring got me there. I also tightened up the hinge by judicious use of some tools. Thirdly I had to slightly countersink the hole the rod goes in, as no amount of force would result in getting it to enter, even with the help of silicone grease.
Now, the reason I sprung for a new pedal was that the hinge was sloppy in the old one (the new one was about the same), and it was difficult to get the rod to enter, I figured that the rubber got hard over time. Bottom line - Did not need a new one. I do seem to have a history of modifying things, from parts to vehicles, starting with my 1967 Bronco. Within two weeks I did three mods. Shift linkage, tie rod and steering column.
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TomC750 1949 8NV8 Ford tractor 1930 1 Ton White 1941 Mercury Sedan Coupe Last edited by TomC750; 06-03-2025 at 08:32 PM. Reason: missing word |
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#393 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,644
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#394 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 4,097
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A few months back, I fitted a new engine [255 cu in 21 stud] into my 35. After doing a few miles, I noticed engine oil had been spraying over front of engine, collecting on the splash pan under the radiator, and starting to cover everything under the hood with a coat of oil. Figured it had to be the front seal leaking, I had rope seal fitted, so bought some one piece seals, figuring I'd fit them to this engine and subsequent engines I build. I have occasionally used the old 35, but finally, today, bit the bullet; decided to pull engine and do the job properly. Disconnected battery, removed floorboards, undid engine to gearbox bolts, removed hood, wire from oil pressure sender, undid engine radius rods, removed earth strap, removed alternator, fan, inlet manifold. drained coolant, went to remove distributor [three bolt] ;hello, only two bolts holding it on...bottom most bolt completely missing! Duh!! there's the oil leak dummy!!!
So, that's what I did today!! Now to put it all back together; good thing I know this vehicle intimately, I'll put it back with a Lucas 4 lobe distributor this time. Just for something different.
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Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit! |
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#395 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 934
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Put my pen down and released the second set of additional materials for my book. I found some door panel information to document some Ford-approved field modifications, a special equipment grease gun, re-wrote the section on cylinder heads, added a section on newly discovered from shock absorbers, and some other details. Twelve pages this time. The learning continues. Link to the free PDF:
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/images/u...207Jun2025.pdf
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1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
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#396 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,200
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Upchuck I mean update.
More ignition issues. Changed plugs made the gap .35 instead .25. Slight improvement but not better. Put in new Packard 440 wires. Had a backfire out the exhaust on Right side. Works better if you put right wire in correct terminal. Starts and idles ok but pops back thru Carb. Put in new inner caps when I did wires and plugs. Scratched head for a while. Cleaned one of the old inner caps and replaced one of the new inner caps on the left side. evidently the new cap was defective. Anyway starts and runs well. Lesson learned only change one item at a time. Easier to find out if you still have a problem. At this age (77) Trying to figure out issues is a challange as all the people that I knew that knew anything have gone to the Ford Barn in the Sky or moved away. Anyway so much for adventures in Old Ford Maintainance. |
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#397 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2025
Location: Meridian, Idaho
Posts: 33
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I attempted to adjust my carburetor on my 37 pu, crashed and burned, running rich
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#398 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 412
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Put a new NAPA battery in our 38 dlx coupe, we have driven for 60 years
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#399 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 305
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Gotta be some sort of a record. Not a vehicle, but me... been driving for over 70 years, but only about 68 legally.
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TomC750 1949 8NV8 Ford tractor 1930 1 Ton White 1941 Mercury Sedan Coupe |
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#400 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 305
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Sorta related, worked on the trailer I'll use to transport Planet1 (the '41 Merc) to Springfield.
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TomC750 1949 8NV8 Ford tractor 1930 1 Ton White 1941 Mercury Sedan Coupe |
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