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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Any of you guys have a tried and true method of removing these vacuum set screw plus from intakes? I obviously tried a screw driver to NO avail and it finally skipped SO I stopped before I mess anything up any further!!!
Thanks!!! |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 934
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I had the same problem with cast iron valve covers. I ended up carefully drilling it out incrementally increasing drill bit diameter until I was afraid of hitting the threads or the bottom seat in the valve cover. Then I used a pick to pry the remaining brass bits out (along with some choice words which are inappropriate to mention here). Obviously I had the valve cover on the bench and not on the engine.
I think the issue of dissimilar metals is the culprit. Looks like you have a harder challenge with soft aluminum.
__________________
1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Quote:
The current plan is to remove the intake so I can get a better angle on it and not contaminate anything else and do just as you have described…..I can’t think of any other way!!! |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,138
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If you can get a straight shot at it from the inside, it would be easier to drill it out and the drill might catch and run it right out. Or is this what you meant by a "better angle"?
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,239
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Hand held impact driver? The type you hit with a hammer?
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 325
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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Heat the area around the plug with a propane torch, DON'T have to get it very hot, lots of expansion to aluminum and pot metals.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 838
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A combination of Mart and Terry with a shot or two of PB blaster when hot normaly works. The aluminium will exspand much farther and faster then the steel plug. This should break the bond and also alow the oil to get down in the threads. Tim
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 2,989
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dont the intake have a taper for the fitting? you could end up messing that up by drilling it out
__________________
If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McMinnville, TN
Posts: 2,468
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Just did one of these two weeks ago. Used my mini-ductor and a shot of free-all and it came right out
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 838
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Tim, I'm always looking for a better tool. What heat tool do you have? Tim
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
I got the Bolt Buster brand tool. Mainly because it's made in the USA. Since I got it, the torches only come out for cutting. It's been a life saver for our daily drivers and old Fords. https://boltbusterinc.com |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockwall TX
Posts: 6,018
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Whaa Laaa
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