Dual Exhaust On A 34

[Ken/Alabama]

Working on a 34 Roadster for a customer. He wants dual exhaust and supplied a pair of Reds Headers. Question is how do you get around the battery box on the driver side ?? I know it’s been done but I’d like to see. Moving the battery isn’t an option.

[cas3]

From memory, I can double check tomorrow, but I think the exhaust "port" on the pass side X member is a bigger oval than the drivers side. I used a hole saw to make both sides the same, then the pipe really needs to hug the rail there. It will be hard to do with the body on the frame

[Robert/Texas]

When I bought my '34 roadster in 1995 it had a dual exhaust system with cast iron headers and the battery was mounted on the passenger side of rumble seat floor. I never changed that until I discovered Optima 6-volt batteries. I replaced it with one which which was small enough that it can't be seen unless you are able to crawl down onto the floor. The steering box leaked like crazy so I refilled it with Penn-Rite fluid and that solved that problem. It hasn't lost a drop since.

[TerryS]

Here are some pictures of my 5 window.
Everything is hanging below the frame.
Done about 2008.

[JimG]

Here are some pictures of my exhaust system. I have since rerouted the pipes after the glasspacks to exit out the rear of the car.

[Kube]

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If this is simply for appearance, I'd suggest running a "crossover" pipe just in front of the rear crossmember.
Ya still get the appearance of two tail pipes but a lot less work.
A full dual system can be done obviously but tucking in the left side around the clutch and battery is a test of patience.
Me? I can't stand the look of pipes below the frame.

[kiwi nz]

Originally Posted by Kube

If this is simply for appearance, I'd suggest running a "crossover" pipe just in front of the rear crossmember.
Ya still get the appearance of two tail pipes but a lot less work.
A full dual system can be done obviously but tucking in the left side around the clutch and battery is a test of patience.
Me? I can't stand the look of pipes below the frame.

Has anyone done this? Do both pipes sound the same?
I was thinking of doing this with my 50 Coupe, get a one inlet/two outlet muffler and somehow arrange it so that both tailpipes are the same length.

Geoff

[Kube]

Originally Posted by kiwi nz

Has anyone done this? Do both pipes sound the same?
I was thinking of doing this with my 50 Coupe, get a one inlet/two outlet muffler and somehow arrange it so that both tailpipes are the same length.

Geoff

I'd done it for clients on a couple of '40 Fords.
Smithy muffler. It was an easy and economical way to go. In my opinion, it sounded the same as two Smithy mufflers.
It was very easy to split the authentic tail pipe and install a "y" of sorts to run a pipe over to the right side. From there a simple bend and done.

[cas3]

I gotta agree, no pipes below the frame is the only way to go

[DavidG]

I have a otherwise stock '34 coupe that came with Fenton headers and dual mufflers and pipes. One important specification that the owner had for those doing the work was no frame alterations, in addition to no interference with the stock battery carrier and mechanical brake controls. Unfortunately, I don't have any good photos of it and the car is in hibernation off site for the winter. As you might imagine, there's lots of custom pipe bending involved. It can be done.

[Floyd]

I did this on my 32 roadster, 36LB engine ,stock exhaust manifold ,Ford script battery , mechanical brakes,etc. Yes it can be done since I did it. This takes patience and every 1/16 " matters a lot im order to do this amd still allow safe clearance to the brake and clutch action. I modified the battery box by 1/4 " or so and moved it slightly toward the outside ot the frame rail. I skinned about 1/8" off of a section of the frame lower return flange. When done no one (except David) would be able to tell anything was done. There is a lot of little changes needed for it to work and look untouched. I made up cardboard sections of tube to see that it would clear everything . You need safe clearance as these cars flex under driving, steering and braking. The last thing you need is to have a cotter pin on the brake get hung up on something. Trial and error and mock it up. Plan on 50 times. When done I took it to the local California legendary rod hot muffler shop for the pipes. He did it in one beautiful piece from manifold to muffler. I also ran the driver side pipe thru the rear crossmember just like the factory did on the passenger side. If you don't have patience to fiddle with this you may need other options. When done it is a work of art and looks like factory setup. No butchering involved, just some minor surgery. To make matters more fun I deepened the Ford script batter box (and bracket) to accommodate the newer taller Optima battery

[Joe B.]

Originally Posted by kiwi nz

Has anyone done this? Do both pipes sound the same?
I was thinking of doing this with my 50 Coupe, get a one inlet/two outlet muffler and somehow arrange it so that both tailpipes are the same length.

Geoff

Here's my '50. Obviously not the same length, but it looks good and the difference in sound is barely discernible. Magnaflow muffler.

[Lawrie]

Floyd, I like how you ran the pipes through the rear cross member.that would take some work,
What diameter tube did you use there.
Lawrie

[Floyd]

Lawrie, I drilled a hole with a hole saw just like Ford did on the other side. Without doing this you have a tough time getting past the axle and the spring without making a mess of things. Looks factory original and you use all the factory hangers. I saved the disk I cut out in case someone wants to go back full stock . Just weld it back in.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by cas3

I gotta agree, no pipes below the frame is the only way to go

Me too , I don’t really like that idea. What I’m looking at now is in today’s world you can get a battery that’s thin, like 5”. I could modify the battery box easily and it would provide enough room to pass the exhaust pipe through between the battery and frame rail . I’m still doing some measuring and so forth on this.

[Lawrie]

Floyd, lucky our right hand drives have the hole through on both sides.
I think the original pipe was 1/1/2 or so diameter, I have a half done the 34 with 1/3/4 tube, but its some work to get it tucked in nice and neat.
A long time back some nice gentleman sent me some picks from an original exhaust still in the chassis, so im going to use that as a guide.
My 33 is OK ,but my 34 3w is a pain as it goes between the spring and cross member and hits on sharp bumps,
that is the one I will work on first.
But have been building a spare trans these last few days .
Lawrie

[cas3]

I drilled holes on the back side of the rear crossmember like Floyd too

[Lawrie]

On the 33 and 34 you can't do that, as the rear shock is right there.there is just a little flare on the back edge that the pipe curves past.like it goes in through the front of the cross member but inside the cross member the pipe has to bend down to exit under the rear cross member flange.
Lawrie

[cas3]

Correct Lawrie, I built my 3w from parts with no previous 34 experience. I did not have any shocks at the time, and thought they mounted outside the rail. After realizing the mistake I was forced to go to tube shocks.

I made the whole system cutting and welding mandrel bent 1 3/4" pipe. I never liked how muffler clamps distort the pipe making it difficult to take apart, so I did all the joints "motorcycle" style. I bought a good Bluepoint expander for a slip fit, and made my own strap type clamps so it can all come apart without too much of a fight. It worked out good I think, But we are getting way off track of Kens desire to do the job without hacking things up.

[kiwi nz]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

Here's my '50. Obviously not the same length, but it looks good and the difference in sound is barely discernible. Magnaflow muffler.

Thanks for posting these photos Joe, that is what I had in mind.
I don’t think it is proper to have V8 with only one tail pipe.

Geoff