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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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Machine shop called me this am to tell me the 4” crank I brought them was cracked on a main journal. Time for a stroker kit.
This is a stock engine, stock carb/ignition. How big of a stroke can I go with? I want to go with at least 4 1/8 stroke but would to go 4.25 if possible, thoughts? JB |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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4” crank on the way. I just didn’t like having to bore this good block out to 3 5/16 for the 4 1/8 and 4 1/4 stroke. 4” is plenty
JB |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,202
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Good choice. Did you order a brand new 4" crank?
__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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Just an FYI. you don’t need to bore block just because you install a 4 1/8” or 4 1/4” crankshaft. Either would have been a great addition and additional c.i.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,135
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If anyone knows of affordable (same price or very close to 4" stroke) cast pistons for +0.060 or smaller overbore and a 4 1/8" stroke please let me know.
All the available 4 1/8" and 4 1/4" stroke pistons I find these days are +0.125 or larger over bore and many are forged. Unless building a hot rod engine these don't make sense to me. Given piston availability the 4" stroke crank makes sense to me. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
Have you called Egge? I'm pretty sure they'll do any size. Ross will as well, but I'd assume they would be out of your budget range judging by what you said in your post. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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When I talked to H&H yesterday it seemed like a 4.125 stoke was not in the cards without a 5/16 bore. But I see a 4.125 scat with standard size rod journals and Ross makes a 4.125 stroke 60 over piston so not sure why that combo will not work with standard rods. I am going to call H&H this morning and dig around a little more.
JB |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,135
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I would not build an 8BA without a 3 5/16 bore. I have done 3 of them and the machinist said they all would have gone more. ("OL' Ron" has mentioned 3 7/16"+ engines). To be fair, I did have to have one cylinder sleeved because of a casting flaw that caused a pit in the wall. The machinist said we could run it as is, but a sleeve would be good insurance.
The pistons cost about the same and like they say, "There is no replacement for displacement". |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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Yes - I would bore to 3 5/16 as well and if you're ordering a kit (depending on the rods you'll be using), I'd go to 4.125 or 4.250 stroke. There is nothing like the additional torque and cubic inches to bring a broader smile to your face! LOL
Here is the kit I'd order: https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/product/1-94617bi/ |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,135
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These are not modern castings that are "done" at .060" over. Henry made 'em to last.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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The problem with the 4.125 crank is the lead time on 4.125 60 over pistons. Well over 4 weeks to have them built. 4” 60 over are much more readily available.
JB |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Gosh, I remember when I bought a complete 296 stroker kit with floating rod bearings and Jahn's pistons from Crankshaft Co. in CA in 1967 for about $500. Then it cost me a whopping $5 per hole to have it bored. My pay back then was $1.15 per hour. Took a lot of "saving up".
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,466
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3twinridges , I sent you a email or pm , I forgot what I clicked on . Its about a motor I have that I’ll not be needing now . It sounds exactly like the one you want to build .
Gary |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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I am going stay with the 4”. Machine shop talked me out of a 4 1/8. They were afraid the extra stroke would put strain on the bearing caps and introduce more wear than a 4” for not much gain.
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
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Quote:
JB |
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#20 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
While you are in there, may I suggest cleaning up the exhaust and intake ports? You can do this with sand paper rolls and a long arbor. The little effort/time it would take, it would make a difference and it will sound a little more like a hot rod flathead if you can get it to breathe better in & out. |
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