276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[GB SISSON]

I started rebuilding the carb last night. It had #49 jets in it. I rummaged through a box of incomplete carbs and found a set of #50s and a single 51. I did some searching but haven't found a source for the 51 or 52. While I have almost no experience with jet requirements, it seems the #50s would be fine and good for the initial start, but would be nice to have some bigger ones on hand. Source? Maybe Charlie NY? Also, is there a specialized screwdriver for jets? Ever since I was 15 and heavily into briggs and strattons I have made a lot of screwdrivers to fit jets but they are never quite perfect. The carb kit I'm using is not a Daytona. It's new and fresh but has a traditional needle and seat, but viton tipped. I loved those in my early briggs and stratton days and then later my thumper british bike phase. I do have an nos needle and seat too. Thoughts? Thanks in advance, GB

[Mart]

I prefer the original steel tipped needle valves. I wouldn't use the #49s. 50s or 51s will be fine. Make sure the carb bodies are flat and fit together well. A vac leak to the power valve chamber will cause an over rich condition.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Mart. I was at the lumberyard yesterday and there was a mis-ordered piece of tempered glass 1/2" x 30" x30" for 25 bucks. I'll tape a piece of 400 grit onto it and swirl away on the mating surfaces.

[GB SISSON]

Quick update. Been sorting out small stuff while waithing for parts. Driveshaft was shipped, will be here tomorrow or Monday, same with new clutch pressure plate. I lapped in the mating surfaces on the carb parts. Good call Mart, they took a bit of work. Found another 51 jet also. I did a lot with the manifolds. Cleaned, sanded chased threads and painted with a new rustleum extreme heat primer. Claims good to 2000 degrees. Might top coat them, but probably not. I cleaned up the headbolts on the wire wheel. They were all in really nice condition. Ran them down hand tight with no gasket just to be sure they wouldn't bottom out too soon at the final torque. They all passed the test. Then I made a quick wooden stand to mount the engine on for final assembly of the flywheel and clutch, then transmission, starter etc. Not a run stand, I'm just tired of setting engines on tires and teetering on blocks of wood. I still have questions on the starter plate, aluminum die-cast truck pan seal piece about 9" long, distributor hold down, top hoses and more, but it's late out there. G'night zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

[38 coupe]

My experience matches Mart's, I have better luck with original steel needles over the viton tipped ones.

For future reference these carburetors use standard Holley main jets available from lots of vendors.

Just FYI, the exhaust manifold on the driver's side is a prewar type used 37-40 or there abouts. The post war manifolds are larger cross section. I doubt it matters to how the engine runs but thought I would mention it in case it makes a difference where the exhaust pipe comes down near the steering box. Red's Headers used parts page has many manifolds identified with pictures and makes a nice reference when figuring out what manifolds were used on from the factory.

[cadillac512]

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Holley main jet "screwdriver".


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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Quick update. Been sorting out small stuff while waithing for parts. Driveshaft was shipped, will be here tomorrow or Monday, same with new clutch pressure plate. I lapped in the mating surfaces on the carb parts. Good call Mart, they took a bit of work. Found another 51 jet also. I did a lot with the manifolds. Cleaned, sanded chased threads and painted with a new rustleum extreme heat primer. Claims good to 2000 degrees. Might top coat them, but probably not. I cleaned up the headbolts on the wire wheel. They were all in really nice condition. Ran them down hand tight with no gasket just to be sure they wouldn't bottom out too soon at the final torque. They all passed the test. Then I made a quick wooden stand to mount the engine on for final assembly of the flywheel and clutch, then transmission, starter etc. Not a run stand, I'm just tired of setting engines on tires and teetering on blocks of wood. I still have questions on the starter plate, aluminum die-cast truck pan seal piece about 9" long, distributor hold down, top hoses and more, but it's late out there. G'night zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

[GB SISSON]

Thank you Fred, Terry and Pete! I picked both manifolds to match what is on the 221 I pulled, so as to make the Y head pipe reuseable. I really want to go to dual exhaust even though I don't really know why, but that will have to wait til maybe next winter. The woodie has a cheap napa generic muffler and it has no distinctive exhaust note. Heck, it could be a small block in there or a four cylinder volvo engine from a wrecking yard for that matter. I have some lengths of exhaust around and been wondering if for now would stepping up to a 2 1/2" diameter pipe and a glass pack make it sound more interesting?When I go to duals I have a larger dia left side manifold that is marked '51 pickup' in really nice shape.
And that jet wrench is exactly what I need. I stole that needed #51 out of a crusty, assembled carb by taking a stab at it, then shaking it around till the jet fell out the hole. Just luck it was a 51.
My blue/gray color scheme was directly influenced by a photo in the Bishop/Tardell book on page 15.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Thank you Fred, Terry and Pete! I picked both manifolds to match what is on the 221 I pulled, so as to make the Y head pipe reuseable. I really want to go to dual exhaust even though I don't really know why, but that will have to wait til maybe next winter. The woodie has a cheap napa generic muffler and it has no distinctive exhaust note. Heck, it could be a small block in there or a four cylinder volvo engine from a wrecking yard for that matter. I have some lengths of exhaust around and been wondering if for now would stepping up to a 2 1/2" diameter pipe and a glass pack make it sound more interesting?When I go to duals I have a larger dia left side manifold that is marked '51 pickup' in really nice shape.
And that jet wrench is exactly what I need. I stole that needed #51 out of a crusty, assembled carb by taking a stab at it, then shaking it around till the jet fell out the hole. Just luck it was a 51.
My blue/gray color scheme was directly influenced by a photo in the Bishop/Tardell book on page 15.

I've got a pair of late model Merc exhaust manifolds you can have but shipping would probably be a deal killer. And since my son no longer works in Seattle I won't be driving north anytime soon. (wife won't fly)

[Bored&Stroked]

Make sure you seal the head bolt threads when you install them. There are multiple products that work just fine - Permatex Purple Gorilla Snot (non hardening), ARP Teflon thread sealer, pipe sealer, old brown Permatex Gorilla Snot, etc, etc, etc..

[GB SISSON]

Thanks guys, I have quite a bunch of exhaust manifolds and next winter when things are slower I should be able to work something up. I know I need to seal the headbolt threads. I just used up my tube of non hardening old school permatex so I guess I need to know the pros and cons of the list of sealers. I have always used the permatex I mentioned. Do we just seal the bolts that go into the water jacket or all? Today I (actually we) drilled the holes in the frame and transmission mount. It's a tough go for me to get the upward pressure with my big ol hole hawg. I called a good friend who lives nearby and he came after lunch to be my lever guy. I'm under the vehicle with my big drill. I gave him a 6' 2x4 and a large block for a fulcrum. He lifts the lever I set the flat back end on the hole hawg drill on the 2x4. He levers down and the holes are produced with almost no effort on my part. After he left I laminated 4 layers of 3/8" reinforced belting into pads for above and below the transmission mount. I used sikaflex polyurethane adhesive sealant to laminate with.

[flatford8]

The 2-1/2” May produce A groaning sound with an echo. Think Cummins six cylinder in a heavy Dodge pick up. Everything I’ve read and what I used myself is 2 inch or under. The glass pack is your choice, some vehicles make their presence known by looks and not noise…….just sayin’…….Mark

[Bored&Stroked]

Just seal all the head-bolts . . . as I think that just about ALL of them go into water (except the one over the exhaust passage). If you have good ole' Permatex around, it will work just fine.

[cadillac512]

I get more comments and compliments on how smooth and quiet my Merc is than any time I've had good sounding duals. Mine is single 1 3/4" with a stock 1957 Ford six muffler. It's sneaky quiet but pulls hard.

[GB SISSON]

OK! I now have a game plan. I love these comments about exhaust, and will run with them. This morning I went down to the shop and started prepping and planning on head installation. First thing I did, since the heads are set on the block without gaskets is to back off the hand tight head bolts and do a test rotation of the crank and listen for piston contact. Remember I was shooting for .040 squish, but some areas got to .050. Without the .052 compressed gasket I assume there should be some bumping of pistons to head, and yes bumping was there. I then inserted some cereal box cardboard at .018 and no more bumping. Since this test is so easy I think I will do another with some Mt Pickett Woodworking business cards at .011. Call me paranoid. I found a half tube of #2 permatex so I'm good there. I bought the copper coat spray last week. I have Best copper big bore gaskets. I almost sent them back to exchange for the composition type , but I did open them to use as templates for head relieving. Never got around to returning them so I'm gonna go copper. 50# final torque in 3 stages seems to be in the median range around here. I will install heads later today or maybe in the morning. I need to get back to the carb rebuild and the the distributor too.

[flatford8]

Love the progress reports!……first start by the end of the week?….. just askin’……Mark
P.S. your thread has so many answers from the experts, to questions I had myself…..that’s it!!…..I’m popping a cold PBR in your honor!……

[Bored&Stroked]

Since this is a later engine, with bolts and you have cast iron heads, you should increase the torque to 65 - 70 lbs.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by flatford8

The 2-1/2” May produce A groaning sound with an echo. Think Cummins six cylinder in a heavy Dodge pick up. Everything I’ve read and what I used myself is 2 inch or under. The glass pack is your choice, some vehicles make their presence known by looks and not noise…….just sayin’…….Mark

X2 on Mark's comment. 1-3/4" is good


Glenn

[GB SISSON]

Awesome input guys!!!

[cas3]

X3...1 3/4"