First Flathead Build

[marko39]

Originally Posted by kegmon

This probably isn't the best way but it worked for me. Pry up the spring from the bottom and see if you can't get the 2 little keepers on the valve stem bottom off. If you can, then the valve should just pull out from the top. A little of the aforementioned acetone/trans fluid on the valve guides will help. I was then able to pop the springs out (wear eye protection). After that I tapped the valve guides down and out from the top using the right sized socket and extension.

That method works unless the valve is stuck open and has too much tension on the spring.still, these valves are easier to remove than the mushrooms.

[sharp21]

These are mushroom valves. I’m still struggling with this. Am going to break down and buy the clip removal tool today. Will prolly be two weeks before it arrives...




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[RalphM]

That cone shaped piece is not part of the valve, raise it up and the split keeper will fall out of place( may need a little help).

[JSeery]

"These are mushroom valves."

Those are not mushroom valves, the cup part (6534) is just part of the rotator.

[sharp21]

So I need to slide that cup upwards? I’ll give that a try tomorrow


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[sharp21]

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Small wins.


Got the first one out. I leveled up on the fork and gave it a smack with the hammer. That got the keeper to move and the retainers just fell off.

From there I levered out the spring aaaaand.... stuck again!



That’s the valve guide from the top. I tried getting on it with the hammer and an extension but no dice.



That’s it in the inside. I can easily get the fork on it now but as it fully engages there is nothing to lever against. Can’t get it to budge.

I’ve soaked it with 50/50 and am off to work. Will try again tonight


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[JSeery]

Your getting a lesson on how easy some flatheads can be to disassemble!!!!!

A large diameter brass or aluminum rod makes a good drive to get the guides out.

[marko39]

you can now use a crowbar with a block of wood to pry valve out. if you are lucky you wont bend it but i would figure on using new valves anyway.

[GOSFAST]

Just get a "conventional" valve spring compressor, those rotators and locks will come right out.

This is how we install all the valves during the reassembly, with a spring compressor. Ours is air-operated but a hand one will get it done also!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot (again) of the compressor at work, makes life easy.

[19Fordy]

After you remove the lifters, drill 1/8 inch holes in the lifter bores to make adjustment easy.
Would be nice if those are original Johnson adjustable lifters. Don't throw them away.

[RalphM]

And be sure to drill the holes as low as possible so a punch, or drill rod will center in the slot on lifter when adjusting your valves. You’ll see when you finally get one of the lifters out.

[sharp21]

Originally Posted by RalphM

And be sure to drill the holes as low as possible so a punch, or drill rod will center in the slot on lifter when adjusting your valves. You’ll see when you finally get one of the lifters out.

I’m going to circle back with you guys when I get to this stage. I’m having trouble getting the guides out still...

I’ve got them soaking and give em a whack with a socket from the top every time I go by, but no joy yet


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[JSeery]

I think a brass or aluminum rod would be a better driver than a socket.

[sharp21]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I think a brass or aluminum rod would be a better driver than a socket.

Trouble is finding one. I’ve looked at my usual stops and they don’t carry them.

I’ve got a long socket that I plan on beating to death. Good news is that things are starting to move!


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[JSeery]

LOL. I collect up different size and length rods to use. We have a surplus store that handles stock metal that is a good source.

[tubman]

For stuff like this, I use a place called "ONLINEMETALS.COM". They have "samples" of just about anything you might want in the $3-$10 range. Be careful to keep your orders small enough so you can specify USPS shipping, or the freight charges will kill you.

[sharp21]

Originally Posted by tubman

For stuff like this, I use a place called "ONLINEMETALS.COM". They have "samples" of just about anything you might want in the $3-$10 range. Be careful to keep your orders small enough so you can specify USPS shipping, or the freight charges will kill you.

Great tip!


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[rotorwrench]

I use the same guide driver as I use on my Harley 45 flathead guides. It uses 11/32" ID guides too. This is a link to the KD 812 set that has an 11/32" driver size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-D-Tools-N...UAAOSws7xc0kQi

The KD 918 valve puller would likely work as well but I use it to pull the complete assemblies after I yank the horse shoe clips out.https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-FOR...EAAOSwL9hc5ciz

[sharp21]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The KD 918 valve puller would likely work as well but I use it to pull the complete assemblies after I yank the horse shoe clips out.https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-FOR...EAAOSwL9hc5ciz

I see what you mean now. I had one complete assembly that pulled out from the top. Next time I’ll get the clip removal tool and do it that way.




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[sharp21]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

After you remove the lifters, drill 1/8 inch holes in the lifter bores to make adjustment easy.
Would be nice if those are original Johnson adjustable lifters. Don't throw them away.

Circling back! Finished the valves yesterday.



And the lifters this morning



Now where am I supposed to drill these holes?


Don’t forget to clean up your tools when finished for the day!



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