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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Glens Falls NY
Posts: 1,403
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Circuit breakers are an extremely important part of a car. If you buy a replacement circuit breaker, I recommend you be sure to get a Made in USA unit, either NOS or used from a trusted source, via forum classified ads (Fordbarn, V8 Club, HAMB) or eBay etc.
I'm a non-conformist when it comes to stock electrical systems in older cars. The majority of forum members here don't experience or haven't experienced the problems I have ..... (1) Unprotected by a circuit breaker or fuse, my '47 ignition circuit shorted and melted the wiring insulation, and (2) my stock dual-circuit breaker serving both headlight/parking light systems overheated internally a few times and shut down the lighting unexpectedly - in the dark .... no evidence of shorts in the system. I rewired using over-sized wire for a 12 volt system, converted the system to blade-type fuse boards serving every device, and incorporated relays for the ignition circuit, headlights and fog lights. At the cost of sacrificing some of the car's hidden vintage character , the benefit is safety, lower overall electrical system resistance, easier starting, brighter lighting and easy roadside repairs.
Last edited by Drbrown; 03-12-2017 at 01:23 AM. |
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#22 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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This is a later model CB panel, but it is the same basic arrangement. All of the earlier wiring diagrams I have seen (41 and up) show the two CBs, but are not clear on the amperage ratings or which one connects to what.
Last edited by JSeery; 03-12-2017 at 01:38 AM. |
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#23 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,007
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Quote:
In aviation, we use the same manual reset type breakers for both 12 and 24-volt systems since they are both below 32-volts DC. There is no difference. This is an old thread. |
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