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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
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Hello to the Ford forums, I have a 31 sedan that I'm in the process of replacing gaskets on... I had removed the head and some other parts out of the bay for powder coating and now ready to start re-assembling. Any thing I should do or know before bolting the head back on? Block and head surfaces have been scraped clean.
I will upload some pictures to my photobucket tomorrow as I know threads are worthless without pics. I'll also give a little background as to who I am/what I do
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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Welcome to the Barn
The deck and head should be checked for being flat, they do change over time and use. Unless it is a show car do not use a gasket under the hater outlet on the head. A thin coat of RTV will do the trick. Torque in steps.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 137
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I had to remove my head to replace rings, valves and valve guides. I had good results using Snyder's best copper gasket, along with Copper Coat, sprayed on the gasket. I laid the sticky gasket on the block, then screwed in new studs. Use anti seize on the stud threads. Torque gradually in steps, per Les Andrews book. Like Mike V, I also used RTV on the water outlet. I checked the torque cold, about 5 times, after several 150 mile runs. I torqued 65 lbs. on my 5.5 head. Standard head should be 55 lbs.
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
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Quote:
Snyder's told me to torque their 5.5 head to 55 foot pounds as any tighter can cause the studs to lift and distort the area around the studs. |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,320
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Quote:
Charlie Stephens |
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