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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Payette, ID
Posts: 949
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I have a shortened rear end for my 32 project. The later rear ends had a bearing at the mid point along with zerc and seal. This rear end torque tube has been shortened is such a way that the front bearing and mid bearing are about 15 inches apart.
Should I just forget the mid bearing and seal? Tim |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,597
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When you say "shortened rear end" I'm assuming it's just a shortened torque tube we're talking about yes?
15" gap between the front and center bearing, I'd fit the center bearing. If you don't, the drive shaft is a lot more likely to whip. Play it safe, fit the center bearing. Martin. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: so cal, placerville, vegas
Posts: 1,436
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You didn't ask, but if it were me, I'd replace the tt and d/s with earlier parts, or fabricated parts. I never did like the 'skinny' d/s or center bearing.
(And, yes, I do have one car, 47, that uses those parts. I just prefer what's in my 34.) For your case, is it possible to remove the center (now non-center) bearing, and install a fabricated tube-type d/s? This could be made from a 34 d/s, or fabricated. There used to be a 'kit' available for this. I'm unsure if it's still for sale? |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,645
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If the shaft is true, no problem. Somewhere around 38 to 40 or 41 a one piece solid drive shaft was used. I have shortened several and never had a problem.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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The solid shaft needs the damper bearing and they are available. To go without the damper bearing, a person can either use the older tube shaft (if it is the type that will fit) or carefully remove the front splined section from one of the large tube shafts and weld it up to a straight tube shaft.
Dick Spadaro (God Rest Him) used to have the tube shaft kits made up. I imagine he found a machine shop to fabricate the front splined section then all that was needed was a length of proper tube and a ten spline adapter modified to weld on the back. A person should have a drive shaft shop weld it up & check the balance to insure a good running part. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,156
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Sounds like someone shortened your torque tube near the front, how did they shorten the driveshaft? if they cut and re-splined the front end, the bearing should still ride in the same area and support the shaft. I'd be sure use it. No matter which end was shortened, the shaft would still be supported with-in the originally engineered parameters; only one side is shorter. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 1,470
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When I shortened mine I took out the 15 or so inches that included the bearing. Then went with the tube type driveshaft mentioned. Got mine new from speedway, but a 34 shaft could be converted.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,917
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A model A shaft can be used as well.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,239
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I've used the 32 "B" type shafts. Cut the end off, weld in a 6 spline coupler with a short turned up adaptor piece. If a 10 spline adaptor is available you wouldn't probably need the extra piece.
Mart. |
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