The Ford Barn

RobR'35 · 05-26-2015, 09:51 PM

The matter of the cam and gear is solved,I feel 100% on that matter.Timing marks match and its a bolt on type cam gear.
As for the type of dist..That was established in my very first msg. Its the crab type.
I managed to remember some of what Hoop had to say.I applied that to working on the first dist. As I sent a totally different dist.to Bubba.
I changed point gap on the first dist. per Hoops instructions.
Set the adjusting plate to the third mark from the top.That looks like its real close to the two ruler method as ford explains.
I put it on the car and its running great.
Amongst all I did, I used the original coil that I started with.It had 2 ohms res.and I bypassed the ballast under the dash.Way better spark! Way better!!!!
I hope ive answered every ones questions.

RobR'35 · 05-26-2015, 10:06 PM

Point gap on the first coil was too close. Looked to be like .012. I changed it to .015-.016
With the pointer I made and the marks on the crank pulley one at TDC and one at 4 deg. BTDC I was able to hand crank the engine over with #1 spark plug out and the plug hooked to the wire.
As I cranked slow I was able to see where on the crank pulley the plug sparked. A half line move to advance on the adj. plate and I was right on 4 deg BTDC.
I fired it up and let it warm up. Its running better than when I first started.

Mart · 05-27-2015, 02:46 AM

Glad you have it running nice. You must run the coil through the ballast though, (if an original type coil) because it will overheat if running straight voltage.

Mart.

JM 35 Sedan · 05-27-2015, 05:35 AM

Good to hear you are up and running again! X2 what Mart just mentioned in his post on ballast resistor and coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil rewound by Skip Haney at some point. The insulation on the wire used to wind the original coils is nowhere near as good as the insulation used today on modern wire.

RobR'35 · 05-27-2015, 05:43 AM

I believe ive read some where if uve a coil with internal resistance of 1-2 u need a ballast. If 2-4 internal resistance no ballast.It was by someone on here I thought...

JM 35 Sedan · 05-27-2015, 07:20 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RobR'35

I believe ive read some where if uve a coil with internal resistance of 1-2 u need a ballast. If 2-4 internal resistance no ballast.It was by someone on here I thought...

Rob, I was never quite sure which type coil you actually had on your engine to begin with. If you had or have the original Ford type coil used from '42 - '48, starting with the crab style distributor, I would suggest having that rewound by by Skip Haney. If you have the more modern type cylindrical coil that should be okay.

RobR'35 · 05-27-2015, 07:39 AM

Its the cylindrical style coil. I know its not original. Its what came on the car when I bought it. Ive many spares of both style dist. helmet and crab that came with the car. And timing covers for the adaption to both style distributors.
Once ive got the jist of this timing down using the crab type dist. I believe id like to tackle learning and knowing all I can about the helmet type.And using it as well.

JM 35 Sedan · 05-27-2015, 10:36 AM

Rob, when you get some time to take pictures of your car and learn how to post them here (not really that difficult) I would appreciate seeing what your car looks like and I'm sure others would as well. I believe I read in another post that you have a '35 roadster?

RobR'35 · 05-27-2015, 11:24 AM

Im real new to the computer also. Lots to learn.

scooder · 05-27-2015, 02:28 PM

Cool beans,
All sorted now.
Martin.

RobR'35 · 05-27-2015, 05:14 PM

Yes. Way better then when I started to begin with.Shes a bit hesitant at acceleration. And now and again the exhaust will pop when I let off the gas. The exhaust smells rich.
The carb is the next to be gone through.

05-26-2015, 09:51 PM	#41
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing The matter of the cam and gear is solved,I feel 100% on that matter.Timing marks match and its a bolt on type cam gear. As for the type of dist..That was established in my very first msg. Its the crab type. I managed to remember some of what Hoop had to say.I applied that to working on the first dist. As I sent a totally different dist.to Bubba. I changed point gap on the first dist. per Hoops instructions. Set the adjusting plate to the third mark from the top.That looks like its real close to the two ruler method as ford explains. I put it on the car and its running great. Amongst all I did, I used the original coil that I started with.It had 2 ohms res.and I bypassed the ballast under the dash.Way better spark! Way better!!!! I hope ive answered every ones questions.

05-26-2015, 10:06 PM	#42
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing Point gap on the first coil was too close. Looked to be like .012. I changed it to .015-.016 With the pointer I made and the marks on the crank pulley one at TDC and one at 4 deg. BTDC I was able to hand crank the engine over with #1 spark plug out and the plug hooked to the wire. As I cranked slow I was able to see where on the crank pulley the plug sparked. A half line move to advance on the adj. plate and I was right on 4 deg BTDC. I fired it up and let it warm up. Its running better than when I first started.

05-27-2015, 02:46 AM	#43
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 9,239	Re: '35 flathead timing Glad you have it running nice. You must run the coil through the ballast though, (if an original type coil) because it will overheat if running straight voltage. Mart.

05-27-2015, 05:35 AM	#44
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,876	Re: '35 flathead timing Good to hear you are up and running again! X2 what Mart just mentioned in his post on ballast resistor and coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil rewound by Skip Haney at some point. The insulation on the wire used to wind the original coils is nowhere near as good as the insulation used today on modern wire. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

05-27-2015, 05:43 AM	#45
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing I believe ive read some where if uve a coil with internal resistance of 1-2 u need a ballast. If 2-4 internal resistance no ballast.It was by someone on here I thought...

05-27-2015, 07:39 AM	#47
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing Its the cylindrical style coil. I know its not original. Its what came on the car when I bought it. Ive many spares of both style dist. helmet and crab that came with the car. And timing covers for the adaption to both style distributors. Once ive got the jist of this timing down using the crab type dist. I believe id like to tackle learning and knowing all I can about the helmet type.And using it as well.

05-27-2015, 10:36 AM	#48
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,876	Re: '35 flathead timing Rob, when you get some time to take pictures of your car and learn how to post them here (not really that difficult) I would appreciate seeing what your car looks like and I'm sure others would as well. I believe I read in another post that you have a '35 roadster? __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

05-27-2015, 11:24 AM	#49
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing Im real new to the computer also. Lots to learn.

05-27-2015, 02:28 PM	#50
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,597	Re: '35 flathead timing Cool beans, All sorted now. Martin.

05-27-2015, 05:14 PM	#51
RobR'35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan Posts: 604	Re: '35 flathead timing Yes. Way better then when I started to begin with.Shes a bit hesitant at acceleration. And now and again the exhaust will pop when I let off the gas. The exhaust smells rich. The carb is the next to be gone through.