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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Pahrump, NV
Posts: 513
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Been thinking about this for a while. A quick question for the true believers in "non-ethanol" gas.
What is the anti knock chemical used? How does it affect the components of the fuel system? |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2025
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 226
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Technically the ethanol is anti-knock at 110 octane by itself that is why its run in race cars with high compression. For non-ethanol fuels common "rocket fuel" additives back in the day were benzene, toluene and xylene which all are around 100-120 octane individually. When they were cheap guys would add a gallon of them to the tank of regular to make high-test in areas where it was not available. Now toluene is regulated and hard to find and xylene is over $25 a gallon so its just cheaper to buy premium from the pump rather than mix your own. The octane boosters in a small bottle are nothing more than benzene (naphtha) and a touch of xylene at a huge mark-up.
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 4,432
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Quote:
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41 woodie https://41fordwoodie.weebly.com/ Last edited by mrtexas; 01-14-2026 at 04:56 PM. |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2025
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 226
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Quote:
Nice to hear from someone in the industry. Nearly all my graduate chemistry was focused on materials longevity and identification, so I only know enough about gasoline and the science behind it to be a dangerous hobbyist. The big brain folks certainly can do some amazing stuff with those molecules in the labs. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 603
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agreed as to previous post.
but to put it another way... octane is added to gasoline to suppress knocking (detonation) in both ethanol and non-ethanol gasoline, AFAIK. however, the amount of octane added to base non-ethanol gasolines is greater than that added to base ethanol gasolines. most likely because ethanol alone has a pretty high octane rating. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Pahrump, NV
Posts: 513
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My belief the “true believers” having so much trouble with their fuel systems is because they refuse to upgrade to 30R7 hosing and buying rebuild kits (fuel pumps and carbs) that are ethanol compliant. How I know; when I bought the 49 40 years ago drove it home and ran great. Soon thereafter I started having fuel issues. Crap in the carb and a destroyed fuel pump. After a skull session with the local parts guy, he put me onto the idea my entire fuel system needed an upgrade to ethanol compliant kits and cleaning out the fuel tank. Problems solved and been running whatever came out of the local gas pumps since. My story and I'm sticking to it
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 603
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Quote:
![]() i didn't go to any great lengths in updating my fueling system, but i did replace most of it from the firewall forward. the pump was a mess and i replaced that along with the carb, but i, for the most part, attributed the damage and failures to age. but i'm ready to entertain the possibility that it was all due to the ethanol. ...if figure i can never have too many things to blame my troubles on. ha |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 256
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Allow me to weigh in here with a question.
When I was rebuilding my 1935 21 stud 85HP a few years back... I read that there were three components that I needed to upgrade so that I could use either Ethanol or pure gasoline. I made these upgrades as follows: [The parts I replaced with ethanol resistant ones were] #1 - the flexible hose that connects the metal fuel line to the mechanical fuel pump, #2 - the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm, #3 - my Holley Model 94 carburetor accelerator pump. Even with these upgrades I have used nothing but pure gasoline... so here is my question. Are my upgrades sufficient for the use of ethanol and pros and cons of ethanol use over pure? Thanks all! |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Pahrump, NV
Posts: 513
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Quote:
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 256
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Yes... the original tank was was beyond repair... so replaced it with a new one
Thanks!
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,639
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Quote:
#5 - fiber fuel pump valves (sticky) #6 - fiber carb needle valves (sticky) #7 - 4 oz of Stabyl Marine in every tank (puts a layer of oil atop the fuel to prevent absorption of moisture)
__________________
Alan |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Pahrump, NV
Posts: 513
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One other story. My ’69 RS/SS big block brand X car with a Demon carb (Holly knockoff). Bought a Berry Grant kit. Ran great for a couple of years. One afternoon flooded out at every stop sign. Replaced the gaskets, generally typical Holly problem. Pulled the primary and secondary float valves and the little “O” ring seals on the needle and seat assembly had shrunk and deteriorated.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 841
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I've taken many carb apart and seen the destruction Ethanol does if left over the winter or longer. There is a reson they only sell non Ethanol at marinas. Take a junk carb and fill the bowl wth Ethanol then put it away somewhere safe for 4 to 6 months and pull it apart. I think you will be amazed. Exhaust is another isue. Did you ever notice all the water trickeling out of the car in front of yous tail pipe at the stoplight ? That a result of Ethanol and is a major polution going down the storm drains. It also causes you exaust to rot out much sooner. There are many articles writen about the good and bad effects of Ethanol over the years and I choose not to run it in my vintage or small engines. Tim
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,559
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I run any any old pump gas all summer, but I do try to buy pure gas on the last few fill ups before winter. Never use ethanol in the chain saws.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Midland, MI
Posts: 234
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I run "recreation fuel"(no ethanol) in my '34 and '57 and I have no fuel problems. Fuel is more $$ but vehicles run GREAT. Get that "corn " out of the fuel!!!
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,925
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Where does one buy "recreation fuel"?
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Corsicana, Texas
Posts: 1,552
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: u-rah-rah-Wisconsin
Posts: 1,271
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It will vary by local practice but outdoor power users - boaters and off road equipment in particular - is a good place to start.
__________________
19 and 49 F1 - jes' like Henry II built 1946 Deluxe - as Henry built it |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: central coast california
Posts: 603
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Quote:
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 01-12-2026 at 12:35 PM. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: summerton, sc
Posts: 545
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I'M in sc most gas stations sell it at the pumps along with the other junk.
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