The Ford Barn

Rustedjunk · 05-03-2018, 10:23 AM

I need suggestions and help on the best tool to remove stabilizer links in shock links on my 47 Ford. I had a couple of tools that are used in the past for popping ball joints, but it doesn’t cut it on this one because these link heads are too narrow. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best tool for the job?

FortyNiner · 05-03-2018, 10:37 AM

Ultimately, only a BFH worked. Since mine were not going to be reused, cutting them made removing them a bit easier.

Cecil/WV · 05-03-2018, 10:41 AM

I have never failed to get them off with a big hammer. Might need to put the sway bar in a vice to get a solid hit on it, after removing the end attached to the axle.

A little heat can do a world of good also.

51 MERC-CT · 05-03-2018, 10:49 AM

Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.

JM 35 Sedan · 05-04-2018, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.

I've seen this method of shock link removeal mentioned here many times, and others usually chime in to say "yeah, x2, that's the way I do it", etc., but I've never seen this method demonstrated, or at lest a picture showing how/where a piece of heavy steel is placed, and how/where the other side is struck with a big hammer, and exactly what is considered to be "the loop diameter". Apparently, rustedjunk didn't fully understand this explanation either, since he wasn't able to make it work.
I think it would be very helpful if someone could post some pictures here showing exactly how this is done. Or if there is a previous post that demonstrates this, please post a link to that.

V8COOPMAN · 05-05-2018, 09:38 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.

Possibly, this picture may help clear-up the "two hammer" method. The "loop" is the tapered female part in the equation. Don't be afraid to whang the piss out of it with your "hammer-hitting" technique. DD

drolston · 05-03-2018, 01:33 PM

Common tie rod end removal tool worked like a champ on the rusted shock links on my '41.

Rustedjunk · 05-04-2018, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drolston

Common tie rod end removal tool worked like a champ on the rusted shock links on my '41.

What website is that tool on?

drolston · 05-06-2018, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustedjunk

What website is that tool on?

Just Google Tie Rod End Tool. Available many places.

DD931 · 05-03-2018, 01:45 PM

51 Merc has it right. Because this is a taper, it's best to strike the side of the joint. Use a BFH on the other side to hold it against the blow. Perhaps you can use the tool shown above by drolston at the same time. The extra force certainly won't hurt. I know it seems that beating on the threaded end should do it, but many years of experience by many mechanics support the strategy of getting a good hit on the side. And, it's very important to have a big heavy thing (BFH/5 lb maul) on the opposite side to beat against.

Rustedjunk · 05-04-2018, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DD931

51 Merc has it right. Because this is a taper, it's best to strike the side of the joint. Use a BFH on the other side to hold it against the blow. Perhaps you can use the tool shown above by drolston at the same time. The extra force certainly won't hurt. I know it seems that beating on the threaded end should do it, but many years of experience by many mechanics support the strategy of getting a good hit on the side. And, it's very important to have a big heavy thing (BFH/5 lb maul) on the opposite side to beat against.

I tried striking the side and it didn't budge. My car I'm assuming was a barn find before I got it and I think these links have been in the car since the 50's.

51 MERC-CT · 05-04-2018, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustedjunk

I tried striking the side and it didn't budge. My car I'm assuming was a barn find before I got it and I think these links have been in the car since the 50's.

Just striking the side is not enough, there has to be a suitable heavy steel hammer or block of steel held against the opposite side while striking.

JSeery · 05-03-2018, 02:07 PM

What 51merc & DD931 said.

V12Bill · 05-03-2018, 03:47 PM

X 2

JSeery · 05-03-2018, 04:54 PM

I remember the first time I was shown how to do this. It was in a salvage yard, trying to remove a tie-rod. The owner came over and said, let me show you how to do that, a young me in my early teens.

ford38v8 · 05-04-2018, 12:24 AM

Son of a gun. Never too old to learn a new trick!

Russ/40 · 05-04-2018, 11:03 AM

You need to hit it hard enough to distort the female part momentarily. Backing up the hammer with a HEAVY piece of iron on the other side is key.

TJ · 05-04-2018, 11:31 AM

A pickle fork has always worked for me.

Pete · 05-04-2018, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJ

A pickle fork has always worked for me.

Me too. No distorted hole after you get done and wondering why a new tapered part doesn't seat.

Russ/40 · 05-05-2018, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete

Me too. No distorted hole after you get done and wondering why a new tapered part doesn't seat.

That is never a problem. The distortion is momentary. Never any residual change to the taper.
Also, it saves the cup seal from ruin you will get with a pickle fork.

05-03-2018, 10:37 AM	#2
FortyNiner Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: u-rah-rah-Wisconsin Posts: 1,269	Re: Tool advice Ultimately, only a BFH worked. Since mine were not going to be reused, cutting them made removing them a bit easier. __________________ 19 and 49 F1 - jes' like Henry II built 1946 Deluxe - as Henry built it

05-03-2018, 10:41 AM	#3
Cecil/WV Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gerrardstown, WV Posts: 2,303	Re: Tool advice I have never failed to get them off with a big hammer. Might need to put the sway bar in a vice to get a solid hit on it, after removing the end attached to the axle. A little heat can do a world of good also.

05-03-2018, 10:49 AM	#4
51 MERC-CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Hartford, Ct Posts: 5,898	Re: Tool advice Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter. __________________ DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES

05-03-2018, 01:45 PM	#10
DD931 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PA Poconos Posts: 723	Re: Tool advice 51 Merc has it right. Because this is a taper, it's best to strike the side of the joint. Use a BFH on the other side to hold it against the blow. Perhaps you can use the tool shown above by drolston at the same time. The extra force certainly won't hurt. I know it seems that beating on the threaded end should do it, but many years of experience by many mechanics support the strategy of getting a good hit on the side. And, it's very important to have a big heavy thing (BFH/5 lb maul) on the opposite side to beat against.

05-03-2018, 02:07 PM	#13
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Tool advice What 51merc & DD931 said.

05-03-2018, 03:47 PM	#14
V12Bill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mt. Holly,NJ Posts: 1,822	Re: Tool advice X 2

05-03-2018, 04:54 PM	#15
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Tool advice I remember the first time I was shown how to do this. It was in a salvage yard, trying to remove a tie-rod. The owner came over and said, let me show you how to do that, a young me in my early teens.

05-04-2018, 12:24 AM	#16
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,634	Re: Tool advice Son of a gun. Never too old to learn a new trick! __________________ Alan

05-04-2018, 11:03 AM	#17
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Tool advice You need to hit it hard enough to distort the female part momentarily. Backing up the hammer with a HEAVY piece of iron on the other side is key.

05-04-2018, 11:31 AM	#18
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,773	Re: Tool advice A pickle fork has always worked for me.