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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 72
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Touching up an original 1941 southern California Mercury coupe and the painter would like to try Nitrocellulose to do a blend. I have heard from Jeff Hirsh today that they no longer produce the product. May I ask the members here if there is a known source?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Granville ohio
Posts: 174
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Try TCP Global
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,140
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I use to get mine from a piano refinisher . It was imported from Czech or Hungary istill have some . I could check tomorrow if you wish .
Gary Ps , this was in 2006 so... |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 72
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I appreciate the replies and anything that might be done to locate the product. Bryan
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,809
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They also use it to finish guitars.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,244
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Eureka Calif.
Posts: 969
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I believe nitrocellulose is another word for lacquer. If so, it is prone to checking and crazing mostly because it's brittle and will not expand and contract as much the metal does. It's no longer legal to sell in automotive paint stores in California. You might look into single stage acrylic enamel or urethane followed with a blender on the over sprayed edges.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: orange co. ca.
Posts: 178
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if that paint is factory, it would be enamel, i think.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,244
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There are multiple types of lacquer paint - nitrocellulose being the one that DuPont invented over 100 years ago. There is also acrylic lacquer - and even some water-based stuff that Sherwin-Williams is putting out.
As another person noted, the original paint was enamel, but it is not easy to patch and feather in enamel paint and have it blend well. Today, most folks use a base + clear combination, which never quite looks like hand-rubbed enamel or lacquer. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 3,822
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Trying to blend lacquer either nitro or acrylic with enamel will make instant "alligator skin" checks. Lacquer color is mostly lacquer thinner which reacts adversely with enamel.
This is not a good idea if the color being blended with is NOT lacquer. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,078
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Exactly! A lesson learned (painfully) in my younger days.
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"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 72
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Yes, the original finish is enamel..
Thank you folks for the information and thoughtful advice. Bryan |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
Posts: 4,614
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yup, lacquer thinner is like the top of the food chain for auto paint solvents.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 3,822
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Haaha, yeah Mike, any of us who started painting back in the day when lacquer was still plentiful, learned that lesson the hard way! I am pretty sure I have had every type of problem associated with automotive paints there is.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 10,438
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Luckily for me, I first experienced that "effect" on an $.89 model airplane, not a full-size car.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,244
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Lacquer over enamel - did it all the time.
BUT - not if the enamel was in poor shape and also with a sealer underneath on the main areas. One then has to color-sand and blend. The vast majority of spot/panel repairs in the 70's was all lacquer. We never attempted to blend enamel into enamel. Today, because of new materials (vastly superior to lacquer) everybody does base-coat, clear-coat. It is a very different world . . . and a super-expensive one! |
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