Replaced my carburetor...used copper line...going steel ASAP

[green50]

My original carburetor (94) was leaking at the gaskets so I changed it out with another one. When I put the steel fuel line back on it was leaking (ferrules bad). I made a new fuel line from copper (12"-16"), do you think of this is acceptable? It doesn't leak now. Thanks

[Jack E/NJ]

Are you known as an instigator? 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[Barry-ct]

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

[green50]

Originally Posted by Barry-ct

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

Thanks, I didn't mean instigate. I ran it from the fuel pump to the carburetor. I'll replace it with a steel line the first chance I get.

[oldford2]

Well, here come the anti copper folks. "Too brittle and will crack under vibration". Except, there is no movement (vibration) between the fuel pump and carb. I have never seen a first hand report of a copper fuel line between the pump and carb cracking. Too many arm chair metallurgists out there.
JMO
John

[42merc]

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Originally Posted by Barry-ct

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

IMO, using copper gas line on these old Fords is not a big deal, except for the purists.
The days of driving daily on washboard gravel roads are long gone.
The copper line that was installed will outlast the owners life span.

[B-O-B]

Alan I carry one in every car & NOT in the trunk but right by my feet. Grundy is my pal also.


I don't think the sky is falling!!!

[Mac VP]

I just went thru this on the '42 Ford. Previous owner had installed a copper line. We stock some pre-bent factory fuel lines (steel of course) but not the correct one for my 42. We also stock fuel line kits....copper coated steel with the ferrules and brass fittings. You make up yourself.

This was a great opportunity to try out the stuff we sell. First of all, use a proper tubing bender....the steel line will kink if you try to bend by hand or try to wrap it around a screwdriver handle. Scratch one line!

Second attempt. Located my long lost tubing bender. Made perfect bends but I made it ever so slightly short, and couldn't finagle it into place and keep the fittings lined up squarely. Scratch a second line!

Third attempt. The line is plenty long enough. I just made my first bend (from the carb inlet) with an extra inch or so of line to my first bend. Due to the angles involved between the carb and the fuel pump, I ended up making 3 bends altogether. It's awkward trying to find the best spots for your second and third bends because everything on the motor is in the way. I trimmed the ends to my final length when I felt comfortable with my angles.

The ferrules (compression fittings) are slid onto the tubing ends AFTER you slide on the brass fitting. Leave about 1/16" of tubing showing to the ferrule. I installed one end of my new line into its location at a time....this lets you make sure the line is fully inserted and the ferrule is tightened, securing it onto the tubing permanently. Then remove that end and repeat the process set the other end. Finally, reinstall your new line and retighten both fittings. No sealer or Teflon tape should be necessary to prevent leaks.

Tips....use a proper tubing cutter to make your cuts. Trim any flash from the inside of the tube at your cut. Blow out the line after any cutting. I also found that my ferrules didn't want to slide onto the tube at my fresh cuts. I used a fine tooth file to smooth out the ends for the ferrules.

I feel much happier knowing that I now have a proper steel fuel line to my carb. Sure would hate to be in one of those side-of-the-road videos of a car engulfed in flames.

[B-O-B]

Guess mine is wrong but I'll tuff it out. Copper all the way from the tank to the carb,a couple of interruptions along the way for elec pump & (3)filters. I know some are not overjoyed with glass filter either. I used one on my 66 vette for over 20 years with no problems.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Mac VP

I just went thru this on the '42 Ford. Previous owner had installed a copper line. We stock some pre-bent factory fuel lines (steel of course) but not the correct one for my 42. We also stock fuel line kits....copper coated steel with the ferrules and brass fittings. You make up yourself.

This was a great opportunity to try out the stuff we sell. First of all, use a proper tubing bender....the steel line will kink if you try to bend by hand or try to wrap it around a screwdriver handle. Scratch one line!

Second attempt. Located my long lost tubing bender. Made perfect bends but I made it ever so slightly short, and couldn't finagle it into place and keep the fittings lined up squarely. Scratch a second line!

Third attempt. The line is plenty long enough. I just made my first bend (from the carb inlet) with an extra inch or so of line to my first bend. Due to the angles involved between the carb and the fuel pump, I ended up making 3 bends altogether. It's awkward trying to find the best spots for your second and third bends because everything on the motor is in the way. I trimmed the ends to my final length when I felt comfortable with my angles.

The ferrules (compression fittings) are slid onto the tubing ends AFTER you slide on the brass fitting. Leave about 1/16" of tubing showing to the ferrule. I installed one end of my new line into its location at a time....this lets you make sure the line is fully inserted and the ferrule is tightened, securing it onto the tubing permanently. Then remove that end and repeat the process set the other end. Finally, reinstall your new line and retighten both fittings. No sealer or Teflon tape should be necessary to prevent leaks.

Tips....use a proper tubing cutter to make your cuts. Trim any flash from the inside of the tube at your cut. Blow out the line after any cutting. I also found that my ferrules didn't want to slide onto the tube at my fresh cuts. I used a fine tooth file to smooth out the ends for the ferrules.

I feel much happier knowing that I now have a proper steel fuel line to my carb. Sure would hate to be in one of those side-of-the-road videos of a car engulfed in flames.

Mac, A great "how to" - thanks. One thing I might add: Solder the ferrule to the line. Ford did that for a reason.

[ford38v8]

Mac, That's a great How-To.
I can add just one tip that you will agree could have made your job easier:
Use a metal coat hanger as a prototype for lengths between bends.

[ford38v8]

B-o-b, Familiarize yourself with the instructions on the side of the bottle.

[Charlie ny]

X2 on the solder !
Charlie ny

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

X2 on the solder !
Charlie ny

Really? Curious on what this does. Doesn't the nut hold it tight enough?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Really? Curious on what this does. Doesn't the nut hold it tight enough?

May have been to hold the parts together as a unit during production and assure that the ferrules were in the correct location on the tubes (handling and quality control). Not sure if this was repeated at the dealerships during repairs, that would be interesting to know.

[bmf]

It seems that some posters here believe that the engine does not vibrate and therefore cannot harm a copper line. Where did this theory come from? Hmmm?
Same with rough roads.

[jrvariel48]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

X2 on the solder !
Charlie ny

Do you install and tighten everything THEN remove and solder or do you set ferrule at 1/16" from end, solder, THEN install and tighten line?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by jrvariel48

Do you install and tighten everything THEN remove and solder or do you set ferrule at 1/16" from end, solder, THEN install and tighten line?

I set the ferule in a "donor" fuel pump I have. I do NOT use the carburetor nor pump on the car to seat the ferules. Once they have been seated, I apply the solder.
Ford did this on all their lines to avoid both fuel and air (vacuum) leaks.

[jrvariel48]

Originally Posted by Kube

I set the ferule in a "donor" fuel pump I have. I do NOT use the carburetor nor pump on the car to seat the ferules. Once they have been seated, I apply the solder.
Ford did this on all their lines to avoid both fuel and air (vacuum) leaks.

And this is done with the line sticking out 1/16" passed the ferrule correct??

[Kube]

Originally Posted by jrvariel48

And this is done with the line sticking out 1/16" passed the ferrule correct??

I never measured it but I would hazard a guess at closer to an 1/8".