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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,593
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Does anyone know of a source for pre-cut shims (donut shaped) to go behind the bearing races in the axle housings. To be clear, I'm NOT talking about the tapered shim for the end of the axle shaft. Also, I'm NOT referring to the available shim that goes behind the bearings on the carrier. Ideally, they would be 3.125 OD x 2.75 ID inches or near. (.005 or .010 inch thickness would be good.) I've Googled to no avail. Also, my local commercial truck garage hasn't had any luck. TIA, Roger
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Shims behind the bearing on the carrier should have the same effect as shims behind the outer race in the axle tube. Since you are asking for shims, I assume you have the gasket thickness down to the minimum and still have too much side play in the carrier. I had to cut my own shims for the last rearend I worked on.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: santa cruz, calif
Posts: 2,011
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Toms right about the carrier shims having the same effect, but when there is a lot to take up, I cut some of my own for the race shims to spread the shim around more evenly. Some of the earlier housings had a thicker race and those will need more shim, so I place one behind the modern races. In most cases the play is due to a spun bearing having machined off the carrier, and the ready-made shims are designed for that.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,593
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Obviously, I realize the carrier shim would do the same thing which is why I stated they were available. I have cut shims from shim stock for the races in the past which is a real pain on the ID so wanted to see if pre-cut were available. I wasn't going to go into an explanation of "why" but it's easier/safer to pull a race than risk damaging a bearing. Also, there was a slight spin which leaves a radius in the corner that the carrier shim may ride on or back to trimming and hoping it centers.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
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Twice I have started to answer this and got side-tracked because I did not have the time to find my pictures to illustrate my point on how we do it but the jest is that we no longer use shims there. Since we are already restoring the housing (by installing a new hub bearing sleeve on the opposite end) to compensate for paint mil thickness on the backing plate, and for a worn hub taper (which causes the drum to rub on the brake housing plate), we usually take .004" - .006" off of the mounting surface where the brake housing (backing) plate bolts onto the axle housing in the lathe. We also take .010" - .015" off of the gasket surface area where the differential housing surface meets the housing tube flange. This pays huge dividends in stopping axle leaks and adjusting differential carrier bearing preload.
Now the next question is, how do y'all compensate for worn Differential (Spider) gears? This would be the "play" between the thrust surface on the axle shaft and the axle gear to the differential gears allowing the axle shaft to move horizontally in & out of the housing. Y'all tell me how you deal with it and then I will tell you we are dealing with it. ![]() ![]() |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
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I trust you see why I think my process in #5 is the better way for us. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,593
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Brent, relative to the question on horizontal movement on the axle shaft, I thought "excess" came from wear on the end of the axle against the spider center and wear on the back side of the axle gear against the inside of the carrier. I suppose any solution is using parts with minimal wear. Welding, machining, and heat treat would be a solution but expensive. Most of us probably do nothing.
I like your solution to not using shims but you have the equipment. Thanks for your idea on making shims. I have steel shim stock which would be more difficult than brass, therefore I need to get brass. BTW, how did you end up with your Hershey list? |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
Posts: 3,636
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Mc Master-Carr has shims that are Metric,...70 X 90...that would be...2.7559" X
3.5433".....close |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rock Hill, S.C.
Posts: 985
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gather a small crowd of guys, bolt together 10-12 pieces of shim stock between two pieces of 1/8" steel plate, or even plastic, and drop it off at the water jet guy and come back after lunch.
just a thought
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,099
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![]() Quote:
Since I never have to resurrect badly worn parts I haven't needed a solution although there are numerous possibilities.
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Part # A-4222-S $.95 each.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Parksville B.C. Canada
Posts: 880
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#13 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80
Posts: 4,893
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I bought mine from a cemitruck parts dealer. I have no idea who made them, but they were very inexpensive. I have enough left for about 3 more rearend rebuilds. Rod
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