Cold start problem

[brum1]

Engine never did start up after a few turns of the starter when cold; but has been worse in the last week,

This is what I have tried;

checked coil spark visually-good
cleaned and set point gap (file)
cleaned badly fouled plugs
compression checked year ago and was good
plenty of power when running
plenty of fuel getting to carb-can smell it

type start sequence; fuel on, retard spark; full turn on GAV, pull choke

Car run great once its started, also starts beautifully when its warm

Any feedback with similar experience is appreciated

[MrTube]

You probably are but I just want to confirm that you are holding the choke closed long enough to "prime" the system with fuel but not too long and not too short?

Typically I open the choke just before she starts.

I would also replace the plugs rather than just clean them.

[Special Coupe Frank]

I usually release the choke when I hear the carb intake start to "slurp" - after about 3 compression impulses (grunts of the starter ). My car (stock, unrestored, 86,000 miles, 60-65 lbs compression) usually starts in 3-5 compression impulses from dead cold.

How much cranking does it typically take to get your Flivver started, Brum ?

I think Mr. Tube might have a good point about replacing the plugs... Motorcraft TT-10 or Autolite 3076 are almost cheap, at $2-3 bucks each...

[700rpm]

You only need three things to make it run: timing, spark, and gas. You've got spark and gas. Are you sure your timing is right?

[Gary WA]

Check the distri cap to rotor gap should be close to the same! .035

[RonC]

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Bill, usually cold start problems are fuel related. Sounds like your flooding. try a fresh set of plugs

[brum1]

Thanks for all the feedback,

I cleaned the black suit of the plugs with a brass wire brush(gap is at .035) Not a big difference. I will buy a new set and give that a try

[RonC]

also try a lot less than a full turn on the gav maybe 1/3. just choke it a little

[Modelakid31]

If you replace the plugs and still have the problem , i would check the carb. could be a bit dirty in one of the jets.

[Clem Clement]

Check that you have a good ground. Battery to frame and battery to block. Clean battery terminals as well. The starter maybe grabbing all the energy available.
Clem

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by brum1

Thanks for all the feedback,

I cleaned the black suit of the plugs with a brass wire brush(gap is at .035) Not a big difference. I will buy a new set and give that a try

I usually try not to use a wire brush to clean spark plugs. The brass especially, being a soft metal, can leave metal on the insulator which can help the spark short to ground. If a new set of plugs doesn't help, then try hand cranking the engine to see if it fires right off.

Earlier this summer, after 6 weeks of rain and very hot humid weather, I took my 28 out for the first time, and I had to hand crank it to make it start. The starter spun it just fine, but for some strange reason it wasn't getting spark with the starter, but fired right off with the hand crank. It's been perfect since that day.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Since it has been worse of late I agree new plugs are a worthwhile investment. With that said, most folks seem to overuse the choke. I hold the choke for two compression strokes and both cars typically fire on the third.

[Special Coupe Frank]

I agree with Marco on overuse of choke... if you hear it "slurping" at the air-horn, it's flooding...

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

Correct coil polarity?

[brum1]

Decided to replace the points today-and this is what I found, have you ever seen this type of set up??

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by brum1

Decided to replace the points today-and this is what I found, have you ever seen this type of set up??

To check that brass plate in the second picture for grounds, just turn the key on and put the volt meter leads from the brass plate to ground. You should read battery voltage.

That is not my favorite setup for the points. If it was mine, I'd return it to the fine stranded very flexible wire between the plates.

Also, I see the distributor was very rusty at one time, and hopefully it was blasted clean before the paint was applied. Make sure the lower distributor body, that fits the hole in the cylinder head, is clean and without paint, so it gives the distributor a good ground.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by brum1

Decided to replace the points today-and this is what I found, have you ever seen this type of set up??

Yup! It eliminates the wire from the bottom plate to the top plate. Have heard mixed results from those that have it installed.

[brum1]

Decided to check float level with sight tube(fuel level very low) Installed my spare carb and the car satrted with a few turns-I beleive the low float was the cause of the cold start issue. Will be 80 degrees today in Southearn Mass; will keep the Tilly on for the weekend and open up the Zenith to adjust at a later date-Thanks to all who responded

[Tom Endy]

Try pulling the throttle control handle down about a third of the way before using the starter. Hold your left hand of the throttle handle and as soon as the engine catches push it back up. Pull the choke rod up with your right hand and hold it for several revelutions, then release.

Tom Endy

[Tom Endy]

Mr. brum1:

Your photo shows a modern lower plate configuration. There was a post about this subject a few days ago. I posted a disertation about how I experienced a failure using this modification. The Model A police got all over me about it.

If you look at your photo you can see a burn trace on the plate the acorn nut rides on. each time you move the spark handle and the acorn nut moves, sparks fly and a burning process occurs. I looked for some photos I took of the one I removed after 1200 miles, but couldn't find them. On mine the bottom of the acorn nut was severely burned and erroded. The plate had a burn trace as does yours, only much more severe. The burn traces were more severe at the point where the spark handle is all the way up (as in starting the engine) and in the area where you normally cruise. When I replaced my distributor it was because the car refused to start at a gas stop and I could easily see why when I disassembled the distributor.

Tom Endy