Those @#&% tie rod end pulgs-How to get out?

[Fred K-OR]

Well I discovered another little thing on the "new" 29 coupe. The left tie-rod end moves a lot up and down on the spindle arm. I think I have to put in new parts in the tie-rod end. But how does a person get those ----plugs out of the tie-rod end? I have the wrench, I put Blaster on it a few times, I banged it with a hammer, etc. And it is still where it has been for maybe 60 to 80 years! Is there some other thing a person can do to get it out???

Any advise or war stories would be appreciated.

[msmaron]

did you order the plug that goes into your socket wrench to use that fits into the end of the rod and unscrews them???Just call Brattons or Mikes

[Wick]

You did remove the screw in plug out the end where the cotter pin is?
If you have,then put the front end up on jack stands and try turing the steering wheel lock to lock. You can also sit down beside the wheel and give the wheel a good kick with the bottom part of your boot. In case its the screw in plug thats stuck,put some heat on it.
Wick

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by msmaron

did you order the plug that goes into your socket wrench to use that fits into the end of the rod and unscrews them???Just call Brattons or Mikes

Mark I do have the plug wrench for the socket wrench. But with the socket wrench handle I have, it won't come off. Maybe need to get the longer handle out.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Wick

You did remove the screw in plug out the end where the cotter pin is?
If you have,then put the front end up on jack stands and try turing the steering wheel lock to lock. You can also sit down beside the wheel and give the wheel a good kick with the bottom part of your boot. In case its the screw in plug thats stuck,put some heat on it.
Wick

That is the problem, I can't the get the screw in plug out with the special socket wrench. I have the drag link off, backing plate off, etc. so I have a lot of room to operate. Like I mentioned above, maybe a longer socket wrench handle will do it after Blaster has worked on it.

Thanks guys for the thoughts.

[Kurt in NJ]

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Is the cotter pin (split pin) out----perhaps there are rusted remains.

Try tightening the plug, if it tightens clean the threads with pointed tool and brush

Try taking a snall pointed tool and digging out the threads.

Heat

2 hammers, a large one held to 1 side, a small one tapping on the other side ---stay away from the end so you don't mushroom it over the plug.

[james hitchcock]

Be careful I still have the same problem on my 31. The passenger side plug is stuck solid. I've heated it up red hot. Soaked it with W.D. I ordered the tool for my socket and it wouldn't budge. I put a pipe on the wrench handle and danged if I didn't break the tool after only having it for about 20min. That was the end of last summer. I was just looking at it again the other day. Think I'll try another crack with the torch. If you get yours loose please let me know how. I'll share the same if I get mine loose.

[Roadster62]

Just slide a jack handle or length of pipe over the braker bar, leverage is your friend.

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

That is the problem, I can't the get the screw in plug out with the special socket wrench. I have the drag link off, backing plate off, etc. so I have a lot of room to operate. Like I mentioned above, maybe a longer socket wrench handle will do it after Blaster has worked on it.

Thanks guys for the thoughts.

[gunmetal blue]

Heat screw in plug and use candle wax on the end to get in the threads, if you get it hot enough it will. Then try to losen it, be careful not to burn yourself.

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by james hitchcock

Be careful I still have the same problem on my 31. The passenger side plug is stuck solid. I've heated it up red hot. Soaked it with W.D. I ordered the tool for my socket and it wouldn't budge. I put a pipe on the wrench handle and danged if I didn't break the tool after only having it for about 20min. That was the end of last summer. I was just looking at it again the other day. Think I'll try another crack with the torch. If you get yours loose please let me know how. I'll share the same if I get mine loose.

Same thing happened to me when I was taking apart a spare front end. The tool worked fine on my Town Sedan that had sat protected in a barn for 54 years, but the tool just fell apart when I attacked those rusted tie rod ends. Does anyone sell a hardier tool for the stubborn ones?

[700rpm]

The candle wax is a good suggestion. I've used that method successfully on some impossible threads. But Fred, really, that coupe is just going to give you more trouble. I'll give you $1500 to take it off your hands...

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by Paul from Maine

Same thing happened to me when I was taking apart a spare front end. The tool worked fine on my Town Sedan that had sat protected in a barn for 54 years, but the tool just fell apart when I attacked those rusted tie rod ends. Does anyone sell a hardier tool for the stubborn ones?

Snap On does, so does a good Sears store, and they are all "Guaranteed"

[Gord. B by the bay]

Just another system to try and it does work When you get it red hot not yellow have a pail of ice water and pour on the end , the rapid expansion and contraction will loosen the rust in the threads and the plug will turn, this a super way to dissasemble rusty shocks also. There will be lots of steam, snappin and crackin" wear safety glasses
Give it a try if it works let us all know
Gord. B by the Bay

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

The candle wax is a good suggestion. I've used that method successfully on some impossible threads. But Fred, really, that coupe is just going to give you more trouble. I'll give you $1500 to take it off your hands...

Thank you but no thank you!

[pat in Santa Cruz]

in addition to rusty threads, I have dealt with ends where the sloppy fit to the spindle ball hammered the threads so badly that the plug would not budge. Heat and a long handle got it out, but without a tap that size to repair the buggered up threads, it would not go all the way back in. I just ended up replacing the tie rod end. Sometimes its easier to remove the whole spindle arm and tie rod, unscrew the end, toss it in the "someday it will be worth it" pile and start over with a better part. A&L only charges a $15 fee for a core on the arm, and tie rod ends are abundant at swaps and other guys junk.

[V4F]

soak the threads , try your wrench on a impact wrench or driver .........

[RBEDGERTON]

Fred,

I have mine in Newberg now at Jay's Fab Shop. They haven't worked on it yet (they took this week vacation), but said they have a 400 Ton press that should push mine out.

Rob Edgerton

[Fred K-OR]

I had thought about taking the whole tie rod out taking it loose at each spindle like Pat suggested and then taking it to the bench to work it over. If it doesn't come off soon after hitting it with some more Blaster, I think that may be the way to go or get a replacement.

Rod if the bench idea does not work, like you said, may need to call in the big boys.

Thanks guys for the info.

[Rowdy]

I have used one of these nail pullers on some of the stubborn ones. Rod

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by james hitchcock

Be careful I still have the same problem on my 31. The passenger side plug is stuck solid. I've heated it up red hot. Soaked it with W.D. I ordered the tool for my socket and it wouldn't budge. I put a pipe on the wrench handle and danged if I didn't break the tool after only having it for about 20min. That was the end of last summer. I was just looking at it again the other day. Think I'll try another crack with the torch. If you get yours loose please let me know how. I'll share the same if I get mine loose.

IT IS OFF! Got the blessed side plug out of the Tie rod. Checked over everything, seemed to not have to much wear, put some oil on the plug, screwed it back in and tie rod end tight as it should be (as far as I can tell-I am no expert). Now all I need to do is check the alinement (or whatever you check-have to look at the book) once I get the wheels back on.

Here is my proceedure. 1) put a lot of "Blaster" (can get at your local parts store) on it both around the end and turned the tie rod so I could squirt some in where the spindle ball is. Did this two or three times a day for 3 days or so, 2) have patients (which I have little of) but managed to muster up some for this project, 3) then I used a longer 1/2 inch socket wrench-think it was maybe 18 inches long but you could use a pipe on the end of whatever wrench you have. Used the "tool" I purchased for this job. Then on the 3 or 4 day it came off! Wow!

Good luck and hope this helps others. I did not have much faith in Blaster before but now think it is one of the best.