Push button start question

[Rustedjunk]

I'm converting my 47 Ford over to 12 Volts properly with a new cloth wire harness. I was wondering if I need to do anything extra to get the push button start to properly work such as running a second wire from the button, or purchasing a two wire start button?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Rustedjunk

I'm converting my 47 Ford over to 12 Volts properly with a new cloth wire harness. I was wondering if I need to do anything extra to get the push button start to properly work such as running a second wire from the button, or purchasing a two wire start button?

The push button is nothing more than a switch. When you press it, it creates a ground. So, no, nothing needs to be done to it.

[drolston]

You can use existing starter button and 6v starter solenoid; the solenoid may fail earlier than normal because of the higher voltage, but it will work. They sell 12v starter solenoids that work on a one wire "button to ground." That is what I did when I converted my '41 to 12v. Be sure there is a good bare metal contact between the starter button snap fittings and the hole in the dash board. You can also use the 6v starter, but I do not recommend it, as it will slam the Bendix and may break it. I converted my 6v starter by swapping the starter exterior and attached field coils for one from an early 60's Ford starter for their FE series engine. Cost should be under $50 for that starter. It is a bit of a pain getting the brushes onto the armature when you put the pieces together, but you retain the original look and avoid the $280 cost of a custom 12v starter.

[Rustedjunk]

Originally Posted by Kube

The push button is nothing more than a switch. When you press it, it creates a ground. So, no, nothing needs to be done to it.

Thank you.

[Rustedjunk]

Originally Posted by drolston

You can use existing starter button and 6v starter solenoid; the solenoid may fail earlier than normal because of the higher voltage, but it will work. They sell 12v starter solenoids that work on a one wire "button to ground." That is what I did when I converted my '41 to 12v. Be sure there is a good bare metal contact between the starter button snap fittings and the hole in the dash board. You can also use the 6v starter, but I do not recommend it, as it will slam the Bendix and may break it. I converted my 6v starter by swapping the starter exterior and attached field coils for one from an early 60's Ford starter for their FE series engine. Cost should be under $50 for that starter. It is a bit of a pain getting the brushes onto the armature when you put the pieces together, but you retain the original look and avoid the $280 cost of a custom 12v starter.

A 12V starter solenoid was already installed. I did make sure there were bare metal contacts for the button also. Also can you tell me a little more about the Ford FE series engine?

[Notadufus]

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The FE blocks began in '58 as the big-block engines, that progressed from the 332 and 358 versions, then got bigger until the 427s arrived. That includes the 332, 358, 390, 406, and 427s. I'm not sure about what came after that. You could tell an FE block by the odd head-to-intake manifold mating. There were also, 428s, 429s and 460s, but I don't think they were FE blocks, by then. Surely, someone can add to this list.

[1942deluxe]

428 was a FE as was the 410 Mercury engine. 352 was also FE.