Modifications and add-ons

[Gwill65074]

Being fairly new to Model A's and having done my first restoration I am curious about what types of modifications and add-ons that can be done to my car to make it better. Is there any place that one can go to find lists of parts and years that interchange with the A, i.e. trannies, heads, rearends or gears, brakes, wheels, etc.? I've added a third brake light to my rear window for safety sake and I'm trying to finish hooking up turn signals to it. I bought some narrow profile LED clearance lights that fit between the bumper plates and all I need do now is come up with a little more resistance in the circuit so the flasher sees the load and blinks.
I think it would be great if everyone could contribute to a list that new and seasoned Model A'ers could refer to such as accessories, parts, etc. that can be easily added to the 28-31 Model A. Hopefully Ford Barn could find a place on their site to accommodate such a list.
Thanks Guys,
Glen Williams

[1931 flamingo]

You could try using the "search" function in the black bar at the top of this page. What you're asking for is all there (probably also an answer to your blinking problem).
Paul in CT

[john in illinois]

Les Andrews mechanics handbook #2 has a long discussion about mods and a good list in each category. You can get this book from Model A vendors.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4328

#1 a good service manual.

Good luck,John

[jrelliott]

Get an electronic Flasher instead of a heavy duty mechanical one and it may solve your flasher problem. Have found that the replacement LED tail lights have a 10 ohm 10 Watt resistor on the back of the circuit board to make them work. Does not make sense to me, you add LEDs as they do not take as much current then have to add a resistor to make the flasher work. They are brighter than regular incandescent bulbs. Les Andrews books have a lot of information about add ons. Other modifications are up to the individual and how close to original you want to keep it. Feel Safety is the fist priority and you seem to be addressing that with turn signals and third brake light.

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Les Andrews mechanics handbook #2 has a long discussion about mods and a good list in each category. You can get this book from Model A vendors.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4328

#1 a good service manual.

Good luck,John

Isn't #2 all about mods and upgrades?

[john in illinois]

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Yes #2 is add ons #1 is a good service manual.

John

[George Miller]

Two stop lights and turn signals if you live where there is a lot of traffic.
Other wise cannot think of any thing else. Maybe white walls.

[Purdy Swoft]

For driveability and hill climbing power I would recommend a higher compression head such as the Snyders 5.5 or 6.0 compression ratio . A lighter flywheel will give quicker acceleration and take some weight off the main bearings. A model B flywheel works for me. A Fun Projects can style voltage regulator takes the place of the cutout. A cooling band on the generator keeps the commutator cool for long generator life. The cooler band can be easily slipped of and replaced with an original for show. A Snyders repro two blade aluminum fan can save your radiator, hood and maybe your life. A sealed brass rear bushing in the water pump will help keep grease out of the water jacket and help stop drips. The new barrel starter drive works perfectly for me and has no bolts to fall off into the flywheel housing. None of these parts mods really show except the generator cooler band.

[Ron/IA]

You can make mods to the generator system. Fun Projects Inc., and Tom Wesenberg have voltage regulators that can be added (there are others too, but I don't recall that at this time). They are hidden so the original generator look remains (that is if your system is still 6-volt and not using an alternator).

There are direct replacement halogen bulbs for headlights and tail lights. However, for headlights you need to get the bulbs that place the filament in proper position within the reflector for good focusing (I am sorry I don't recall which ones, but I am sure others will have a better memory than me).

There are many products using todays technology that benefit the Model A; for instance, there is highly flexible silicon insulated wire that works perfect replacing that old brittle and stiff wire running between the distributor plates.

[Gwill65074]

Thanks Fellas

[Ross/Kzoo]

Originally Posted by George Miller

Other wise cannot think of any thing else. Maybe white walls.

Really? LOL, LOL,LOL

[Kevin in NJ]

The most reliable cars are closest to factory in specs. A factory built car would run 60 mph on crappy roads. The two biggest problems would be crappy batteries and crappy tires.

The big problem today is a lack of precision in building the mechanicals. Ford specs were very tight and many are too far out of spec to run to their best potential.

Many improvements are really a waste of money and will decrease reliability. A well restored car should be mostly trouble free for 50 years at the rate we drive them. I am talking keeping stuff oiled and adjusting the points and 5 to 8 years on the battery.

Mods to consider. B ignition cam and a B valve cam or a stipe new cam. That gives you better power and you really do not want a worn cam that is the heart of the engine.
A slightly higher comp head takes advantage of modern fuels but is not essential.
Alternators are a waste as you are lucky to get 20 amps because of the small pulley.
Overdrives make limited sense if you plan on doing thousand mile tours every year.

That is a quick nut shell

Remember a lot of people telling you modern improvements make a lot of money selling them to you. Most do not know how to properly rebuild the originals or understand how And why Ford built the parts as he did.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

The most reliable cars are closest to factory in specs. A factory built car would run 60 mph on crappy roads. The two biggest problems would be crappy batteries and crappy tires.

The big problem today is a lack of precision in building the mechanicals. Ford specs were very tight and many are too far out of spec to run to their best potential.

Many improvements are really a waste of money and will decrease reliability. A well restored car should be mostly trouble free for 50 years at the rate we drive them. I am talking keeping stuff oiled and adjusting the points and 5 to 8 years on the battery.

Mods to consider. B ignition cam and a B valve cam or a stipe new cam. That gives you better power and you really do not want a worn cam that is the heart of the engine.
A slightly higher comp head takes advantage of modern fuels but is not essential.
Alternators are a waste as you are lucky to get 20 amps because of the small pulley.
Overdrives make limited sense if you plan on doing thousand mile tours every year.

That is a quick nut shell

Remember a lot of people telling you modern improvements make a lot of money selling them to you. Most do not know how to properly rebuild the originals or understand how And why Ford built the parts as he did.

Modifications!!!



So So true Kevin!!! Remember the thread about the Blue Mountain Tour?

If you want a modern car buy a modern car. If you want to drive a piece of history drive an A.