|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Orlando, FL / St. Stephen, NB
Posts: 195
|
![]()
I just replaced my steering box, so in the process had to remove the pedals, Now I can't figure out how to hook up the clutch linkage. I have ordered an improved adjuster from parts house, but am wondering about the correct way to accomplish this. I am not strong enough to overcome the tension on the throwout bearing return spring from under the car. Any help?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alton, NH
Posts: 1,231
|
![]()
Do you have Les' book? I am not in the shop at the moment to look, but I took my pedels off to replace a badly worn pedal mounting shaft, I do not remember any difficulty putting them back together.
__________________
It's not what people think they know that will hurt them, it is what they think they know that aint so! -Mark Twain. It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.- Unknown |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Meridian, ID
Posts: 583
|
![]()
I'm sure there are better ways, but I used a small floor jack and a small block of wood on top to raise the clutch arm and connect the linkage. It took some trial and error but I got it adjusted properly. The modern adjuster would be much easier but I like having mine the way henry built it. Even if it took more time to get it right.
![]()
__________________
Aaron in T̶a̶c̶o̶m̶a̶ Meridian, Idaho (although still a Montana hillbilly at heart ![]() 1931 Coupe 1931 slant window sedan |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
A bungee cord from the clutch pedal to the steering wheel helps.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
|
![]()
tom, I will remember that idea, I fabbed a lever to hook the arm on the bell housing. Had to fight the floppy pedal too. My hands don't have enough fingers. The adjustment was all the way out. Next time I have to adjust I will be replacing the clutch.
Bob |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
|
![]()
Carlg
Had trouble adjusting the clutch with one of those at a roundup repair tent this summer. It got loose during a tour. my fix was to tighten it up and for the drive home I gave the owner a standard type replacement in case it loosened up on him which it did on the 75 mile trip home. the improved one he had seemed to have a thinner gage fork than yours. Bob |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: east granby conn.
Posts: 70
|
![]()
I use a big adjust. wrench hook it around arm from bottom no problem no need to remove pedals anyway remove steering wheel take key out of shaft jack up put stands up front unbolt box and shaft come out bottom colume comes out the inside of car
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 650
|
![]()
I used a floor jack and a small block of wood to push the lever up so the link can be attached.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: pawlet vt/ port jefferson sta. ny
Posts: 183
|
![]()
I used a one handed pump clamp[woodworkers] to make lever and link line up for the clevis pin...........bobbycoke
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Orlando, FL / St. Stephen, NB
Posts: 195
|
![]()
Thanks to all who replied! I am an absolute beginner in working on my 1929 Model A.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]() Quote:
Yo, Carl, Looking at your pic of the new type adjusting rod, if the original was long enough, I could drill the threads out of the trunion, put nuts on the rod on each side of it and have a CHEEP EASIER adjuster. Bill W.
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
|
![]()
Bill, The threads on the rod in the middle have RH threads on one end and LH threads on the other end so that when you turn the rod, it either comes together or spreads apart depending on which way you turn it. Kinda like a turnbuckle. Don't have to undoo anything to make an adjustment.
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
|
![]()
We must have had a cheap version of the new yoke. the threaded part did loosen up after adjustment with under 50 miles of driving. IMHO a pice of dung. Bob
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Orlando, FL / St. Stephen, NB
Posts: 195
|
![]()
Mine just came in from Snyder's and it took about ten minutes overall to fit and adjust. Strongly made and highly recommended!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|