Trailer

[Domino]

I am in the market for a trailer to haul my A relativley short distrances (100-250 miles) when I do not have time to drive it. I want an open trailer so it may be used for other purposes and one that is as easy as possible to move around by hand or with a dolly. A couple of dealers have suggested a single axle 14ft heavy duty angle iron trailer , one even said a 12 ft one would do the job just fine. Plain Jane without brakes rated to haul 4500 lbs total.

Has anyone used a single axle trailer versus a tandum trailer to haul their A? If so did you feel comfortable? I am leaning more towards a 14ft heavy duty angle with a bulldog hitch. All comments and suggests welcomed. Thanks in Advance.

[Bruce Adams]

Check both your State's requirements and trailer sales people with NO AGENDA, and you will find you will need TANDEM WHEELS WITH BRAKES to safely haul your 2300 pound car. I have found my sixteen foot, tandem, electric brakes, ECONOTRALER, by Dively adequate and much less expensive, new, then alternatives.

[JoeWay]

Bruce is 100% correct.

In addition, most tow vehicles less than about 3/4 ton truck should be equipped with equalizer hitch and anti-sway device. This equipment takes all the surprises out of towing a trailer with a total weight that's probably in the neighborhood of two tons. Don't leave home without it!!

Joe

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by Domino

I am in the market for a trailer to haul my A relativley short distrances (100-250 miles) when I do not have time to drive it. I want an open trailer so it may be used for other purposes and one that is as easy as possible to move around by hand or with a dolly. A couple of dealers have suggested a single axle 14ft heavy duty angle iron trailer , one even said a 12 ft one would do the job just fine. Plain Jane without brakes rated to haul 4500 lbs total.

Has anyone used a single axle trailer versus a tandum trailer to haul their A? If so did you feel comfortable? I am leaning more towards a 14ft heavy duty angle with a bulldog hitch. All comments and suggests welcomed. Thanks in Advance.

I have a 14' homemade trailer with two mobile home axles with electric brakes. I've trailered T's, an A, a Fifty seven Chevy and a '97 Blazer with it with very few problems (the '57 got a little squirrelly on the interstate due to weight distribution issues, but slowing down to 50 mph helped). I tow with a V-6 Blazer with over 200,000 miles on it. Get brakes. You may not need them all the time, but when you do, you're glad you had them!

[MikeK]

You absolutely, positively need electric brakes and a proportional controller! Screw the A, what is your life worth?? When your Shakespeare or Zebco goes zzzzzzz! and you see a fish tail a-flappin', that's good. When you're trailer without a separate brake controller starts fishtailing, your life will flash before your eyes. A trailer can fishtail out of control and flip at less than 25 mph! With a brake controller, lay on the trailer brake only, let the car coast or accelerate it to straighten out a fishtail situation.

If you go with a HD single axle the only advantage is reduced tolls, taxes in some areas. Disadvantages to a HD single axle: Higher ride height & C.G., and a much stiffer spring rate than a dual axle. You won't even have to start your A for things to start rattling loose. A single axle is also much more sensitive to where the C.G. of your load is in relation to the tongue and axle.

My trailer has dual drop torsion axles, giving a much lower riding height than springs. Torsion axles also work like shock absorbers. I also have the easy grease setup, where the axles are cross drilled to lube both the inner and outer bearings by simply popping a rubber cap off the hub to reveal a single zerk. That added several hundred bucks to the build, but with peace of mind, now I can sleep while I drive.

[Karl Wolf]

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Wait til you are doing an emergency stop- the car ahead of you has ABS brakes... You WILL reasses your priorities! Tandem, lots more stability, and mine has a real long front section, cause it's made from a boat trailer, also more stable. One axle has surge brakes, the other has electric brakes... Karl

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Domino

I am in the market for a trailer to haul my A relativley short distrances (100-250 miles) when I do not have time to drive it. I want an open trailer so it may be used for other purposes and one that is as easy as possible to move around by hand or with a dolly. A couple of dealers have suggested a single axle 14ft heavy duty angle iron trailer , one even said a 12 ft one would do the job just fine. Plain Jane without brakes rated to haul 4500 lbs total.

Has anyone used a single axle trailer versus a tandum trailer to haul their A? If so did you feel comfortable? I am leaning more towards a 14ft heavy duty angle with a bulldog hitch. All comments and suggests welcomed. Thanks in Advance.

I made my own car hauling trailer and only wanted it to haul light cars like Corvairs and Model A's. I tried a single axle and only drove about 200 feet and said "NO WAY". I added the second axle right away. As mentioned, a single axle can get you into trouble so much quicker!

[Domino]

My truck, Ford F150 with a V-8, has the tow package on it so I feel comfortable towing with it. I think you are right on about the single axle not being adequate.

[Louis]

Domino,
Go with a 16 foot tandem, elect. brakes, it tow's better on the hi-way and you can also haul a full size car or pick up truck if you need to. you'll be a happy guy .

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Louis

Domino,
Go with a 16 foot tandem, elect. brakes, it tow's better on the hi-way and you can also haul a full size car or pick up truck if you need to. you'll be a happy guy .

agree 16 or 18 ' gives you more flexiblity. even brand new there not an arm and a leg.

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

A 16 foot will have lots of extra room at the front when loaded properly. 14 would do. I would also want a tongue longer than the three feet many come with. Single axle definitly not.

[Michael P.]

Many years ago I loaded my late '31, 4 door slant windshield 4 door (160-A) sedan on a single axle 14 foot trailer and had no room to balance the unit at all. The rear fenders, rear spare tire and luggage rack hung out past the rear end of the trailer and it looked like I had loaded an elephant onto a childs wagon! Since then I use an 18', tandem axle, electric brake trailer and it works very well.

[Tom Foster]

Hi Joe! Glad you are having second thoughts about the smaller trailer. My A's fit very comfortably on my 16ft tandem trailer (with brakes) and our GMC 6.2 pulled the coupe up to Dearborn very well (and other places too). Brakes are a state-law must-have in Texas for any trailer heavier than a thousand pounds loaded weight.
But when I towed a '78 Nova, nearly twice the weight of an A, it filled up the trailer pretty well. If you're taking a musclecar to the races, think about an 18-footer.
and if you're shopping for a new trailer, make sure it has new tires too. A lot of the "price leader" trailers turn out to have recaps and no brakes.
Fearless

[Michael P.]

When you go and look at 2 competitors trailers you might find that one is 200-300 dollars cheaper yet at a quick glance they appear to be very similiar. Be careful. The cheaper trailer might well have untreated deck wood vs treated wood, used axles scavenged from wrecked or very old trailers turned in as trade ins, and used tires vs new tires. In the long run the cheaper unit with the used axle, un-treated wood and used tires will cost you more! Been there, done that!

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

Most important: weight distribution. 10 to 15% of the total on the ball, then add spring bars to level the tow vehicle. On a 2000 lb trailer, 200-300lbs on the ball. Loaded with 2500 lb A (4500 total) make it 450 to 500 lbs. Improper loading can get you upside down real quick. Borrow or buy a hydraulic tongue scale.
A friend lost a truck, trailer and Ferrari last year. Improper loading.

[Model A Man]

dont forget to buy high quailty tie downs to go with the trailer

[Domino]

Just want to thank all for their input - which I generally took. As advised 1) Went to a dealer with a good reputation for honestry etc. and without an agenda. As suggested I did not buy the cheapest thing around - could have saved $400, I also checked the DPS regualtions in Texas and have in writing their requirements requirements regarding brakes which are not required on a tandum trailer registered to haul 4500# or less. I also read up and phoned about weight distribution and load center of gravity; 2) I did get a heavy duty tandum (2 3500# axles) versus a single axle trailer, it is 76" by 14 ft. ; 3) also as advised I got all new tires and wheels; 4) lI also has a bulldog hitch and a full-wrap tongue with setback jack ; 5) Also got the treated wood floor; and lastly 6) got side mounted slide in heavy duty ramps. In that my hauling will not be in cities, hills, or mountains (we live in a very rural area), I elected not to get electric brakes, but did check the cost of a brake/diconnect kit which I can purchase and install myself in case I change my mind about wanting them.

I towed it the 29 miles from the dealer to my house and was quite pleased with the way it pulled (granted it wasn't loaded). Later this evening we loaded it with approximately 2000#s of building materials and took it the the ranch - an 80 mile round trip. Again , I was very happy with it. Hopefully, I'll be just as happy with an A on it.

Again thanks for all the information and suggestions. I found your advice quite helpful.

[antiquepa]

Get a tandam axel w/brakes, you'll be glad u did im sure u will end up hauling more then the model A. My intent was to hall my 28 chrysler, but ive really got my use out of my trailer when I AT ONE TIME HALLED MY REG. VEHICLES

[JoeWay]

Originally Posted by Domino

...I also checked the DPS regualtions in Texas and have in writing their requirements requirements regarding brakes which are not required on a tandum trailer registered to haul 4500# or less.

If your dealer did not STRONGLY recommend brakes knowing you are going to haul cars, or a ton or more of building materials, he is a fool.

Texas may not require brakes under 4500 pounds, but common sense and safety do. The "tow package" on your F150 does nothing to improve the basic physics in the tow vehicle/trailer relationship, and probably does not add anything to the truck brakes. The main thing it does is give you a hitch receiver that probably won't rip out.

Glad I don't drive in Texas. I know I am being harsh, but inexperienced drivers operating poorly-equipped trailer setups are a pet peeve. I've seen too many accidents resulting therefrom.

Loaded car trailers without brakes are DANGEROUS.

Joe

[ken ct]

Im glad most of you guys promote brakes on carhauling trailers,like someone said only a fool would haul with no brakes. "oh nothings happend so far" just wait till it does. ken ct. Ive seen what happends when they start fishtailing down I-95 doing 60-65 mph. I was right in back of one a couple of yrs ago.The trailer was almost going down the road broadside side to side,i dont know how he ever got out of it. Scared the crap out of me. ken ct.