Dropping the oil pan

[olethirty]

Good day all,

I am planning on dropping the oil pan on the Model A soon. It has sat for at least 15 years in a garage and after some suggestions im going to drop the pan and see what the bottom of the pan looks like. While in there i figure i will replace all of the aged gaskets while im doing it.

I am fortunate enough to live near Bratton's and on my way home plan to stop in and pick up some parts. so far from what i can tell this is what i need.

Rear Oil pan Seal
Front Crank Packing
Oil pan gasket ( do you recommend cork or paper for this?)
Oil Pan clean out gasket
Oil pan Plug gasket

Also, since i will be draining the oil, what oil would you guys suggest i run through this? I plan to run something through it in the garage for a while then drain and put fresh back in just to make sure i get the junk out of it. Do you suggest i run it up to temp with some additive to help?

thanks for the help, first model A and just trying to do it right and i know you guys are dang smart

[Gary WA]

Also remove the side valve cover to remove any sludge in there, so valve cover gasket to paper, As far as changing the first oil, just drive it for 500 miles then change it!Have fun!!

[Ed in Maine]

Hello Olethirty, this question is going to lead to a huge number of opinions. It has been sometime since I have done this work so the bulk of the questions can be answered by those more qualified. I do remember that the clearances to remove the pan are tight. You may have to jack up the engine slightly to clear the tie rod. Getting the pan back up and into position while keeping the gaskets in place can be tricky or very simple with the purchase of the pan mounting plastic studs tool set. These studs are made of plastic and they are screwed into the block before you lift the pan into place. Then with the gaskets in place and coated with sealer, you simply push the pan up over the plastic studs (which exactly locates the pan into the correct position and the pan is held in place while you screw in the 1/4 in. steel bolts. The few plastic bolts that were previously installed are then removed and you screw in the last steel bolts to complete the job. These studs almost make this job a lot of fun!! Good luck with your project. Ed

[olethirty]

good call, had those on my list to get already since it looked worth getting and i love tools

thanks!

[katy]

Oil? Use modern 10-30.
Suggest that you tie the pan gasket to the pan with light weight thread, cut it and pull it out when the pan is in place.
Ed suggested gasket sealer on the gasket, I never use gasket sealer on the pan gasket and don't have leaks. YMMV

[nkaminar]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Take a cutoff wheel and make screwdriver slots in two bolts to use in the very front. These are hard to get to with a socket wrench.

No matter how careful you are, you are going to get some foreign material in the engine when you re assemble it. Your suggestion of running the engine for a while and then draining the oil is a good one. I would use just about any detergent oil for the initial run. There after I would use the Valvoline racing oil, 20W-50. This oil has zinc in it which helps reduce engine wear. The zinc is not allowed in modern engines because it contaminates the catalytic converter.

If you are doing this on a concrete floor and don't have a lift, use a floor jack and some wood to help raise the pan to meet the engine.

The paper gaskets work better for me. I use a very light smear of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. If you can get by without the gasket sealer, so much the better. In the 60's, people who were building racing engines for sports cars would use a smear of grease as a gasket sealer. The engine was a lot easier to take apart, which was sometimes done after each race.

[Kurt in NJ]

the ends of the pan gasket go under the rear cap strip,hard to do if the gasket is attached to the pan

[Brentwood Bob]

Gary (#2 ) mentioned, including the valve chamber clean out. This is a good idea. I have found sediment there that will block the oil channels to the cam. I used pipe cleaners , drills, probes, a mirror, and solvent to clear them. Might ask Brattons for their advice.

[1930artdeco]

I just did this and got the 'new' cork gasket that requires no sealer. I could not for the life of me get the square strip pressed into the rear cap. I bought a regular cork gasket and it went right in with my finger pressing it in. I just use a little form a gasket on the block to hold it in place and reinstall the pan.

Mike

[daveymc29]

I cut the heads off of four 1 1/2 inch long bolts and rounded the area I had cut, then I made my screwdriver slots. Took probably 10/15 minutes to make and the pan is easily slipped into place with perfect location. Tighten a few bolts close to each of your new "tools" and then put them in a baggy and back into the "special tools drayer" for next time. Well worth the time spent and unlike the plastic bolts not apt to get broken if you should make a too fast move some place during the pan mounting.

[Bruce of MN]

I made the same, but then my challenge is remembering that I have them.

[Ayers1]

I don't have a lift in my garage so 1 thing that helped me was using ramps to drive on. I pulled up on the front 2 and then jacked the rear up and put 2 back there. That raised the car enough where I had plenty of wiggle room to work.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by olethirty

Good day all,

I am planning on dropping the oil pan on the Model A soon. It has sat for at least 15 years in a garage and after some suggestions im going to drop the pan and see what the bottom of the pan looks like. While in there i figure i will replace all of the aged gaskets while im doing it.

I am fortunate enough to live near Bratton's and on my way home plan to stop in and pick up some parts. so far from what i can tell this is what i need.

Rear Oil pan Seal
Front Crank Packing
Oil pan gasket ( do you recommend cork or paper for this?)
Oil Pan clean out gasket
Oil pan Plug gasket

Also, since i will be draining the oil, what oil would you guys suggest i run through this? I plan to run something through it in the garage for a while then drain and put fresh back in just to make sure i get the junk out of it. Do you suggest i run it up to temp with some additive to help?

thanks for the help, first model A and just trying to do it right and i know you guys are dang smart

This free video shows removing and then replacing a Model A oil pan- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mtc2WGQGAQQ

[Ernie Vitucci]

Brattons has a little tool for holding the oil pump in place when you drop the pan. Get one and ask how to use it. Then, if you want to take the oil pump out and clean it as well, you can do it when you are ready. Put it back the same way it came out...Ernie in Arizona

[Brentwood Bob]

If you pull the oil pump that can affect the timing. Les Andrews red manual is an excellent reference. Local club members would certainly be helpful.

[Bruce of MN]

That tool is easy to make from a brass pipe plug, if you like making your own tools.

[nkaminar]

Bob from Brentwood, Doesn't the gear that drives the distributor and the oil pump sit on top of the camshaft? I cannot see where removing the oil pump would effect that, especially if the distributor is left in place.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Bob from Brentwood, Doesn't the gear that drives the distributor and the oil pump sit on top of the camshaft? I cannot see where removing the oil pump would effect that, especially if the distributor is left in place.

You are correct, it would not effect the timing to remove the oil pump

[Clem Clement]

Ole thirty,

Since you are near Bratton's, we have a great Model A Ford Club Chapter (GWC) Please consider joining us. We have a knowledgeable and most helpful group.

[Brentwood Bob]

I don't remember if the oil pump shaft has an offset like the distributor shaft has.
Stand corrected.