Water pump brass bushing removal?

[ckulchar]

Did a search and didn't find any info. What's the easiest way to remove the rear brass bushing without damaging anything?

Thanks in advance.
Charley

[Brentwood Bob]

Is it spinning? Bob

[Brentwood Bob]

Should press out. Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Support the housing as close to the bushing as you can, then press out the bushing.

[Aerocraft]

The removal is safer than the installation. Since I have broken one water pump housing, I press the brass bushing in only after heating the casting and cooling the bushing.

Gar Williams

[Brentwood Bob]

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I have a leakless water pump that needs to come apart. The bearing is failing (bumpy when the shaft is spun). Don't know the origin, but may well have come from Vintage in Sacramento, CA. I will start a thread and take a picture. The shaft is stainless and the rear bushing is spinning and I haven't been able to take the brass takeup nut off yet. The front bearing looks to be a pressed-in sealed bearing. Much different than the original rebuildable WP.
Anybody tried to work on one of these with any success?
Bob

[todd3131]

I have and I wasn't successful, the main reason was I didn't use a press, if you have access to one you should be able to take it apart but make sure you support all the cast housing or it will break as it did with mine. I wasted the money on the sealed bearing and the shaft along with a housing, ended up ordering a complete one. I have rebuilt many water pumps over the years with great success but that was the one failure, because I thought I could drive it in with a hammer and a block of wood. NOT.
todd

[Don Turley]

I’ve restored over a hundred Model A water pumps, so I developed my own methods and tools to make the job a bit easier. Since I do not own a lathe or milling machine, most of the tools I have made are kept to the simplest form. The water pump housing must be supported at the flange, near the bushing while pressing, either removing or installing the bushing. I used a piece of 1-1/2” schedule 40 (standard) steel pipe, 1-1/2 inches long. Using my bench grinder, I ground a “V” shaped notch on one edge until it would clear the hump in the casting for the grease vein. The notch must clear the cast hump on the impeller side of the flange as well as the cast hump on the packing nut side of the flange. The other items are just cut pieces of metal: (1) a 2” diameter piece of steel to cover one end of the pipe, (2) a 7/8” diameter piece of steel to press the old bushing out, (3) a piece of shaft material about a half inch diameter by about 5 inches long. Look around your scrap metal stash and I am sure you can find something that will work for all of these items. If you don’t have the piece of 1-1/2” pipe, you can buy a pipe nipple at your local hardware store, Lowe’s or Home Depot. A larger or smaller diameter size pipe will not work. Please note that 1-1/2” pipe has an outside diameter of about 1-7/8”.
I remove and install the bushings in an arbor press (hand operated), but a hydraulic press would work if you are careful.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by don turley

since i do not own a lathe or milling machine, most of the tools i have made are kept to the simplest form.

sweet!!!!

[Brentwood Bob]

Thanks Don. I have the arbor press but no hydraulic. There was no spacer between the impellor and the housing. And the brass bushing turns and won't release the packing nut.
Bob

[Brentwood Bob]

Looking at the pictures I might have to drill a hole into the bushing to hold it from turning.
I am wondering if the front pressed in bearing is a needle bearing with a race on the ss shaft. We will see. Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Don Turley

Try removing the impeller from the shaft then remove the shaft from the front of the pump.

I've never done one that way and wonder why you mention it? It sounds like the hard way to do it.

I have had an impellor shatter while pressing it onto a new shaft, so be sure to wear full face protection.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Don, OK, now it makes sense. I haven't worked on a reworked "leakless" pump, but have worked on originals and rebuilt them as they were built originally. IMHO this is the best way to built a pump. The only thing I'd do different is add the front locking collar and install a rear bushing with a double lip seal in the rear of it.

Then when I grease the rear bushing I'd loosen the packing nut first, so the old grease comes out the front of the rear bushing.