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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Easley, SC
Posts: 109
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Im still buying books on the model A's ( Henrey's Lady ) So far I have learned that my car is an early 30 with the brow fenders. I also have learnrd that in this time that left over 29 parts were still being used up. I have a late 29 engine and a 29 front bumper. What I cant get an honest answer on is the rear bumper. is it a one peice, or a two peice bumper ? I have no spare in the rear, just the luggage rack on this coupe. Please< does any one know what is right ?
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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Two piece was factory stock. One piece was for certain later deluxe models, like A400's, and may have been offered as a dealer option for the working class.
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
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OK let's start from the top. First off, it's your car and therefore you restore it how you see fit.
Now with regard to what you are saying, let start at the beginning and let me ask how do you know your car actually was manufactured with 1929 bumpers? Or, ...how do you know it was manufactured with that '29 engine --or even those fenders??? In studying your avitar pic, it appears your car has a lot of mixed & matched parts that gives it some individuality but not necessarily much authenticity. Now to your exact question, based on your picture it appears to have a 1930 bumper mounted on the rear. While I realize you are seeing two separate bars, that one is generally considered one-piece. Now, think this one thru.... What does your books say when it comes to "when or why" the one-piece bumper was utilized? I think the general concensus is they were installed only on DeLuxe models. Theoretically, Eyebrow fenders were a pre-February feature (and some argue they were installed mostly on Sedans) which would pre-date the introduction of the DeLuxe models by 5-6 months. I am of the opinion to be considered correct/authentic it should have the 30-31 style two-piece rear bumpers and the front bumper should have the 62.875 inch bars. |
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#4 |
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As suggested, there is a high probability the car was equipped as it is by a previous owner. The '29 front bumper would never have been installed at the factory. With that said, other items COULD have been albeit unlikely. If that car (or at least the chassis) came from the factory with two side mounted spares it's possible to tell. Look under the car where the side mount arms attach to the frame rail. If they were installed at the factory then there will be three rivets holding the support to the frame rail on each side of the car. If installed at a later date they will be bolted. If you find that both sides are neatly riveted then we should revisit other details.
The rear bumper (excluding the extra clamps) was indeed an option but very rarely done.
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#5 | |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Keweenaw Bay, MI (Michigan's Upper Peninsula)
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Your rear bumper looks to be a 30-31 front bumper.
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Putnam Valley N.Y.
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[[[[ OK Let's start from the top. First off ,its your car and therefore you restore it how you see fit]]]] ."Brent" i think "ALL" of us knows its his car and if want to paint it even pink its his call [Honestly i don't give a rats ass what he does with his car].... That's NOT the answer he is looking for . [QUESTION] Does anyone know whats right???Marco answered it as best as ANYONE CAN! I can say for sure that the 180A's had the full length bumper on the rear since April/May of 1930 and that was a Deluxe Phaeton standard part. So i would say its wrong for his car! BUT hay its his car...
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
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Page 230, March 1928, of the Service Bulletins tells how to install a front bumper on the rear if a customer wants. Also March 1929 service letter says cars ordered with
welled fenders can be supplied with cross bar bumper if requested. Bob |
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#10 | |
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#11 |
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if it were me. i would put the rear one on the front and get the correct 2 piece rear ones for the rear, then sell the 29 bumper thats on the front now. but it is your car.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Easley, SC
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I want to thank you Brent for your reply. I am a new A owner and would like to have my car correct. I look at her as a great piece of American history, an want it to look like when Henery built it. Been trying to hunt down that book. Thanks again Sir for your reply.
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Easley, SC
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#14 |
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Location: Kansas City KS
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The VIN will be stamped on the top of the frame rail right about behind the firewall under the cab. It will give you a pretty good idea of the manufacture date.
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#15 | |
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If the engine is original to the car it would likely be a November or December '29 engine. That is assuming the fenders are original to the car which now appears likely. If you can provide a couple of pics of one end of the luggage rack near the mounting area also showing the bumper cross brace, bumper mount, etc., we should be able to tell more as to what has been changed or added in recent years. Don't be in a rush to take the apart. I strongly recommend driving the car and getting to know it well. Enjoying the car and PLANNING your restoration for a year or so will pay off. Keep in mind that the typical restoration means having the car in pieces for several years.
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#16 |
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Location: Eastern Tennessee
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March '28 S/B attachment...
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#17 |
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"Don't be in a rush to take the apart. I strongly recommend driving the car and getting to know it well. Enjoying the car and PLANNING your restoration for a year or so will pay off. Keep in mind that the typical restoration means having the car in pieces for several years."
Thank you, Marco, for stating that. Wildwilly, Marco is one of the most knowledgeable guys you'll ever get advice from, so listen up. So many cars get taken apart in a rush of enthusiasm for restoration, and then when the reality of the time, money, and work sets in the car just sits. Parts get lost, and sometimes an otherwise good original driver gets compromised to good intentions gone south. "Go slowly for a more harmonious outcome." — Old Sioux Indian saying |
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#18 | |
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Location: Quincy CA
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Joe
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1929 Tudor since 1962 Feather River A's |
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#19 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Easley, SC
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#20 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
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You should be able to date the car by the parts assuming it has the original chassis. The frame date is nice to know but you can date by the parts too. Just make a calendar table with months across the top and list major or easily dated parts on the left of the table from the JS. Color in the date ranges for each part you find on you car. If you do enough parts you will end up with a "best fit" date range of when you car was most likely assembled. The more parts you date and the more original the car is the more accurate your date will be. You should be able to date your car accurately between 1 to 3 months of the actual date of assembly.
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