First inquiry and outline of my Flathead build journey

[Gotsmoke?]

As was stated in a previous post I am new in the flathead game. Im putting all the varieties of these flatheads and parts into context and working to understand what is compatible across the years. I understand the main variants and where the main year categories split.

I have a 41, 47 and 53, all mostly complete...missing distributor from the two later ones. Missing the intake and carb from the 53.

My goal is to build a nice sounding, dependable, two carb, mild cammed, mostly period correct/matching hot rod flathead. Though I am curious if the old distributor is the best way to go or something more maintenance-free.

To add context to engine build, I am using T5 WC from a '95 S10. Using a 28 spline 7 5/8" rear axle, 3:73 posi.

I have some good stuff and some useless stuff. But not sure what's what. For example...i have some new .030 pistons, on reconditioned rods. They look aluminum and have Ford embossed inside below the skirt. Are they NOS or new modern pistons? I don't know if they can be trusted or there is a better option.

I have a couple cranks. I read about the newer versions with two oil passages per crank throw. Can i use that crank on a non-59 block? One was said to be merc crank, but it doesnt have the traditional signs of one. But ill get it measured to be sure. There were a lot of merc only parts with it, so who knows.

I'm working with a competent old school machine shop on this as well. There will be modern adjustable valve train used and everything will be balanced.

I know a lot of guys like the center outlet heads/motors. I'm indifferent, since its not in the original car...prob lean more towards the front-outlet 59 motors because (from what I have read) they have better cooling and oiling.

I think I have enough to get me a long way into the build. But gotta get a good block first. Then see what is compatible.

[Mart]

Hello Gotsmoke. Glad your name has popped up. You'll get plenty of flathead help here.

[19Fordy]

Welcome again.

One option you might consider is installing early style heads on an 8BA block. That way you have a distributor that is easier to work on and there is more space at the front of your engine.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Welcome again.

One option you might consider is installing early style heads on an 8BA block. That way you have a distributor that is easier to work on and there is more space at the front of your engine.

[51504bat]

If it were me I'd build the 8ba block with EAB heads and a Chevy distributor conversion. A former member Charlie Schwendler is the go to guy for the conversion as well as Holley 94 carb rebuilds and fuel pumps as well.


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[Bored&Stroked]

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RE: I know a lot of guys like the center outlet heads/motors. I'm indifferent, since its not in the original car...prob lean more towards the front-outlet 59 motors because (from what I have read) they have better cooling and oiling.

The 59 Series motors are from 1945 to 1948 - from the factory they have center outlet heads and a front mount distributor. The 49 - 53 engines have front-exit heads and a side-mount distributor. Neither series is really better than the other - and most parts will interchange (with the right combination). You can run the later 49-53 cranks in the earlier engines - including the 4" Merc crank. You can run the later rods as well - with a 2-oil hole rod journal crank. I always run the 49-53 oil pump in the earlier engines - is a bolt on (though you need the right pickup). You can put the later cam, timing cover, timing gears and distributor on an earlier motor - same with the later heads.

So, lots of options here. My recommendation is to get your engines disassembled, the blocks cleaned, magged and sonic-tested. Once you know the condition of your blocks, then you can determine your build choices.

There are a LOT of different performance parts - for both series of engines. The sky is the limit on how much time/money you put into one of these engines. It comes down to style, expectations, how many go-fast parts you want, etc..

I like to run a Merc crank and bore the blocks to 3 5/16 - this gives you a really nice 276 cubic inch engine. Really a great combination for the street - with dual carbs, etc..

Best of luck - glad you hung around and happy that you're taking the flathead plunge!

B&S

[Ziggster]

As a complete novice, but one who has gone through the process almost entirely from start to finish, I’ll through some things that I did:

1. Find a machine shop that actually has someone familiar with them.
2. Get a budget in mind. As a ref (just prior to Covid), I had a paid the machine shop around CAN$2,8K for a short block. I also paid separately for cam (orig and had it custom ground by Pete on HAMB), Johnson lifters (do not get anything else - just those were US$350!), and the EGGE pistons. Crank was reground at another place in Montreal, but they took care of all that in the price. Block (59A) was good with only a couple of threads needing repair, and was over bored on top of a previous over bore. IIRC, was 0.040” over. Kept the original heads, crank, rods, and cam as mentioned. I recall there was some issue with the first set of crank main bearings and a second set had to be ordered. I think it is something particular with the 59A cranks, but someone with more experience can chime in.
3. I ended up rebuilding the 94 carb myself as well as the distributor. Ended up swapping the “crab style” that came with the 59A with the earlier “helmet style” which required an accompanying timing cover.
4. Ended up using an earlier Ford aluminum intake vs cast iron one that came with the motor.
5. As B&S mentioned, the sky is the limit, and I really wanted aluminum heads and a two-carb intake, but when looking at the costs of just those alone, it was almost doubling the cost of what I had budgeted. Figured, those are easy to change and add on later on. I think in the end it cost me around CAN$5K - $6K for a complete engine, but I did a lot of work. Not bad considering the orig engine was only CAN$100.
6. I’m also using a T5, but a Ford from a Mustang. If you end up using a 59A block, you’ll need the lower inspection cover if you’re missing it, a “Hogs Head” adapter, and another adapter plate to fit the T5 to the “Hogs Head”. I got mine from MDL (Modern Driveline), but there are folks selling them on the HAMB IIRC.
7. I got three T5 transmissions shortly after getting the engine for CAN$250. They were mostly in pieces except the one I chose to use. I’m still in the process of rebuilding it, but just the cost of doing that is getting up there with new bearings, input shaft, reverse idler, etc. I figure I’ll have at least CAN$1K into the trans alone, which by itself is not a lot, but again stuff to consider when budgeting.

A pic of my engine/T5 combo.



I go by the same name on the HAMB, and you can search my build on there which is pretty detailed since I documented most of what I do so I can actually remember what I did. Lol!

[Gotsmoke?]

That is all great info. Ty! I knew that (59 blocks)...dumb. But thanks for clarification. I'll keep working on the block, and then dive in to these details.

I like the idea of new block and crank with older heads, and chevy distributor.

Really good looking set up as well. (Petehoovie)

Ty for the advice and contact (51504bat)

I have two bad. 1 had pan rail cracks....big and long. 1 has several cracks between the exhaust port and cylinder. I read several places that can be fixed. But, I have two more blocks, one 47 and one 41. I'll have those checked before I really dig into the one with known cracks.

[38 coupe]

Make a plan before spending lots of money or potentially making life harder for yourself in the future. Personally I like the 8BA motors, but they don't easily fit well into early engine bays. If you have freedom to put the firewall and radiator wherever you like then just go 8BA to get the better cooling and crankcase ventilation systems. If space is tight then the earlier water pumps, ignition, and fan belt spacing is easier to work around. Also, the stock ignition from 32 to 48 works with multiple carburetors unlike the factory 8BA ignition.
Regarding the engines you have, it would serve you well to positively ID the engine blocks you have. 8BA era is fairly straight forward, but the 59 marked block and the the 41 engine could both be either 3 1/16 or 3 3/16 factory bore blocks. These are not equivalent for performance build. You would do best to determine exactly what you have before making final plans.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

A pic of my engine/T5 combo.

[deuce_roadster]

I may have missed it from other posts but make sure you use the right rods with the crank you select. The 49-53 cranks with 2 oil holes per journal use insert bearings on each rod, the earlier cranks with 1 oil hole per journal use what are called floating bearings which can roatate on the crank AND the rods so 1 pair of bearing shells is used per journal servicing 2 rods..
The later 49-53 8ba rods and crank are easier to deal with and the bearings are way cheaper. As stated you can make an 8ba block appear like an earlier engine with the proper parts.
Good luck on the block, hope it is good, that is the hardest part to find.

[SoCalCoupe]

The best money you'll spend is getting a copy of the late John Lawson's book "Flathead Facts." He's done a large number of dyno runs with various combinations and documented and explained everything very well.


Aside from the book, you'll get lots of opinions from your post about the "best setup' but I'm very pleased with my '41 Ford bored to 239, original helmet distributor, stock cam, stock heads, Eddie Meyer high-rise 2-carb intake and dual Stromberg 81's. That's the final version; I'm not going to change a thing. It runs great! From what I've read, the Eddie Meyer hi-rise and Edlebrock slingshot are the two best intakes. HotRod magazine did an article about that quite a while ago.

[jimmy_paycheck]

Originally Posted by SoCalCoupe

The best money you'll spend is getting a copy of the late John Lawson's book "Flathead Facts."

I can't find a copy of this book anywhere. Anyone have a copy they'd like to sell? Or a tip on where to find it?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by jimmy_paycheck

I can't find a copy of this book anywhere. Anyone have a copy they'd like to sell? Or a tip on where to find it?

See > https://www.mustangdepot.ca/lifestyl...wson-186-pages

[Ziggster]

I purchased a bunch of flathead specific books including the one above, and found them all lacking in certain details. Actually really disappointed in all of them as a novice looking for info on them.

[Gotsmoke?]

[QUOTE=51504bat;2285114]If it were me I'd build the 8ba block with EAB heads and a Chevy distributor conversion. A former member Charlie Schwendler is the go to guy for the conversion as well as Holley 94 carb rebuilds and fuel pumps as well.


Well, that's is the path! I just got a good 8ba block, scored some eab heads and a few other great parts from a really awesome guy. I'm off the the races on this once the machine shop is done with their work.

I've got a hogshead, just need to get the adapter now.

I'll be putting up a lot of stuff for sale now that I finally have a good block and direction.