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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midlothian illinois
Posts: 468
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IN reading over many of the old posts regarding the rebuilding and adjusting of a 30/31 - 2 tooth steering box, most are referring to the "service bulletins" as the go to source for the correct procedures. I have everything done, cleaned & ready for adjustments..... new worm gear, needle bearings for the sector shaft etc and all new parts. Can anyone post a picture of the service bulletin or a reprint of the bulletin so that I can print it out and take it out to the work bench with me and finish this part of the project? Thanks, Steve
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wakarusa, IN
Posts: 932
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Here are picture, plus you can down load a PDF.
http://modelabasics.com/twoTooth.htm
__________________
http://MODELABASICS.com/ How Things Work on a Model "A" Ford Fordbarners, Feel free to use the pictures on my site to answer questions and create tutorials/tech articles. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,749
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Is it in the car or out? I found it makes a difference if the gearbox has no "load" on it. There is a sequence to the adjustments. I am not sure what it is but it would seem logical that you should do the bearings first. These are the adj screw for the sector shaft and the adj. of the worm. Once you've eliminated the end play in these two shafts. Be very careful of the adj. on the steering that looks a grease zerk was there and someone lost it and put a 3/8-24 bolt in it's place. This tightens the upper race and they can and do split. Run your thumbnail around the bearing race of the old one and you will probably find a crack/split Then and only then can you adj the mesh of the gears. There is a sequence and I don't know what it is. You'll have to play with it until you get it or someone who knows more than I do, about it. Good Luck!
Terry |
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,652
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Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 10-29-2016 at 02:25 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Concord CA
Posts: 755
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You will have to go the the 4 steps a few times because they interact with each other.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,360
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Bob |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I'm using Explorer 7 and it opened fine.
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,652
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I'm using a Mac with Safari. |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,360
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Here it is. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Two Things! First, I wrote that to reinforce the idea that I'm only trying to put him and anyone reading that, on the right track, not to spell out what is to be done. Secondly, Although I neglected to mention it then, I'll mention it now. As I understand it, there are 4 (Four) adjustments , not three as stated in the article. These are 1 and 2, the endplay of the two shafts and 3 and 4 the two gear mesh adjustments. One of which is done with a slotted head pin at the bottom of the gearbox. The other is done at the top of the gear box with a 7/8 locknut. Each one of these operations is separate and independent.
Terry |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midlothian illinois
Posts: 468
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Thanks for all the help - I gathered all my books and one from a friend and started to compare what each of them were telling me to do. I did order a CD of all the service bulletins for future jobs. The books and pictures do not tell
or show the proper orientation of the "eccentric adjuster" (upper RH corner of sector shaft housing) when starting from scratch with all new parts. I did go out to my friends car and take some close up shots of the box to get a starting point for mine. I just assume that the lower eccentric rivet would start in a neutral / straight position, but both his & mine were off center and I doubt that both of these were worked on since they left the factory 85 years ago, so why would both of them have been turned clockwise a little? Confusing with so much information out there and just one or two small details like this creates a problem and I need to turn to all of you for help ![]() |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Well, it happens. Just go thru all 4 adjustments in proper order then repeat a couple more times. It should then turn out OK and it doesn't take long.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,749
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A steering box is not the easiest thing to rebuild! It takes some courage! Pat yourself on the back for attempting it! Many would not! Just remember not to "Gorillaize" the upper race bolt. You can split the race, not a big deal! You'll just have an annoying click as the bearings pass over the area. And I'm sure you don't want that in your new box.
Terry |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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#15 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midlothian illinois
Posts: 468
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"SUCCESS" only 2 1/2 hours and 27 attempts later, it's adjusted ................
Once I understood all the different issues that each adjustment presented, and knowing that each change meant that I had to go back and re-adjust the previous one or two steps, it started getting easier as I was dialing it in and towards the end I was starting to split hairs with how fine I could get each one. A little bit of paint & 600w oil and then the mast jacket & rods will be next to install. I'll re-check all the bolts tomorrow and have one more thing set aside till I get the engine bolted back together. I am also rebuilding the rear axle with all new parts and am using Tom Endys assembly manual to follow along with the repairs. It's fun, now some 45 years after the last attempt with my grandfather guiding me back then. |
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