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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Naples, Fl
Posts: 8
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'31 Ford backfires & has no acceleration, what causes this? Car came out of 10 year storage, ran ok. Gave it some 'Sea Foam', let it set for a day, it started and idled fine, but when driving it wouldn't accelerate and backfired. Answers?
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#2 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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Fuel issue
Spark issue Mech engine issue Clean and adjust the points first The rest takes further qualified diagnosis |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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Do as Mitch says but also could be the gas in the tank has loosened some crud, restricting the flow.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,977
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When the car was put away was everything ok? When my car came out of storage it behaved as you are describing. Turned out to be valves out of adjustment. Lot's of things to consider here so pick a starting point and start eliminating reasons for the behavior.
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Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 611
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Agree, Don't just start throwing parts at it. Systematically work your way through it. Start with the simple things, clean and adjust the points, recheck timing, check the fuel flow to the carburetor, take the carburetor apart and clean it. I will bet after the sea foam crud has been loosened up and you are getting fuel flow issues.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Perfect case for L head engine type valves sticking because of gummy old brown varnish on valve stems and inside valve guides ...... valves moving too slowing and some stuck effecting "valve timing" causing backfiring and loss of power ..... gas/air mixture is pumped out of combustion chamber into exhaust manifold and ignited causing backfire. Vintage 100% cure: 1. Remove (4) plugs and pour (2) cups of Kerosene in each spark plug hole. 3. Allow engine to sit a "minimum" of 24 hours. 4. After it starts, run engine for about (3) minutes. 5. Drain oil/kerosene from oil pan & replenish with fresh oil and take off. No kerosene ................. use Diesel .......... never gasoline. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Shawnee, Ok
Posts: 3,479
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Step 3a: Install plugs
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Chatham, NJ
Posts: 138
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An additional simple step is to be sure the fuel shut-off it open. The fuel shutoff is on the inside of the car against the firewall of the passenger side. Straight up and down is open.
Matt |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Canterbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,242
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First & only thing I would do ; put in another condensor.
After that, work thru ignition & fuel system, one thing at a time. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: N Illinois
Posts: 447
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FIRST - BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE - set you point gap.
second, check timing third, change condensor. 99 times out of 100 fuel and mechanical problems turn out to be timing. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Hi 39,
What happens is that the vehicle is parked with well oiled valve stems and well oiled valve guides and the engine is allowed to just sit unattended. Over quite a bit of time, the volatiles in the thick oil evaporate & it leave a dense sticky petroleum residue on valve stem surfaces and valve guide surfaces. If one wants only a 24 hour soaking, this sticky residue can be dissolved with a thin liquid with more of a cutting action like thinner kerosene or diesel. Liquid Wrench I found works far faster, but is more expensive ..... thicker Marvel Mystery Oil may work, I just never tried it. Learned long time ago to try what once worked successfully ...... time is of the essence, and life is too short to try to experiment with everything in life that may not work. LOL |
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