2 blade aluminum fan

[LarryinWA]

Is the 2 blade aluminum fan the exact dimension of the original fan and if so what did they do back in the Model A era to keep the fans from hitting the lower neck replacement radiators? Still cannot get the fan to clear my radiator, which must be a replacement, and do not have the equipment to shorten and rebalance the aluminum fan!!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Can you position the fan to touch the inlet pipe, then post a picture here?

[Purdy Swoft]

The new fans are not made to exact original dimensions but is close enough that it would fool most. Back in the day people didn't have this problem because the original radiators were built to exacting specs. If you can't shorten the blades, you could find a radiator of the correct dimension or
shim up the whole body . I don't recommend the latter.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by LarryinWA

Is the 2 blade aluminum fan the exact dimension of the original fan and if so what did they do back in the Model A era to keep the fans from hitting the lower neck replacement radiators? Still cannot get the fan to clear my radiator, which must be a replacement, and do not have the equipment to shorten and rebalance the aluminum fan!!!

Hey Larry,
Unless I missed it, you do not say what year your working with Radiators diff yrs are diff, no ? As a suggestion, if you working with '30/ '31, I'll take a pic of my alum fan in my '30 with no problem, and if you can , give us a pic of what you are working with ...mabe solution thereby, maybe not . Maybe rad not right for yr model, etc....


Larrry, if you can see in these pics, there's maybe 3" of clearance from top hose and maybe 7" at bottom. This '30 model and radiator recored setup.

[rocket1]

you could cut the fan down for clearance and take the fan blade to a lawn mower shop,they sharpen and balance blades.I would call them first,it might have to be magnetic.

[LarryinWA]

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It is a 29 std coupe and my old 4 blade fan worked fine for the 55 years I have had the car. Maybe the fan is wrong. I think the radiator which I have always had on the car may be a replacement and be the problem. I only have 1/8th inch clearance with all of the adjustment that I have been doing. I will take a picture and post it.

[Brian T]

I have the aluminum fan from Snyders, and a re-cored 4 row 10 fin from Bersts in Denver with original tanks 1929, there is a little over one inch clearance between the blade tips and the neck, I am also using original front mount from Snyders which measures correctly in height as per Marcos web site, this is possibly the problem.

BTW Hardtimes --- I notice in your pics the bolts that hold the shell to the rad go thru the lacing ,--- is this correct?.
Regards Brian.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The shell screws should go behind the welt.
You have to pry the welt to the side to get the screwdriver in the slot.

[Brian T]

Thanks Tom,
That's the way I have it, the few times I have removed the radiator I take it with the shell, not sure it would be much easier removing the shell first.

[LarryinWA]

Hope these pics attach to show the clearance!

[LarryinWA]

Sorry they are sideways but it does show the clearance.

[Brian T]

Your radiator appears to be of good quality, I see the upper neck appears to be riveted and soldered to the tank --- a rare thing, be sure to look at the front engine mount.

[Bob C]

It looks like you have the starting crank installed, how does it like up.
It it possible the front of the engine needs to come down a little?

Bob

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I had one like that and it was too close to the hose so I loosened up the rear motor mounts and placed a jack near the rear of the transmission, raised it while I tightened the front motor mount then had enough clearance. I tightened the rear mounts last.

Larry, my 29 coupe has the top of the fan closer to the radiator. Can you loosen the upper hose and tilt the radiator back more? mine has an aluminum fan and there looks to be more clearance with the fan back closer to the upper tank and hose intersection. My waterpump nut is closer to the rear of the radiator core.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Brian T

I have the aluminum fan from Snyders, and a re-cored 4 row 10 fin from Bersts in Denver with original tanks 1929, there is a little over one inch clearance between the blade tips and the neck, I am also using original front mount from Snyders which measures correctly in height as per Marcos web site, this is possibly the problem.

BTW Hardtimes --- I notice in your pics the bolts that hold the shell to the rad go thru the lacing ,--- is this correct?.
Regards Brian.

Hey Brian,
Tom W is correct that my shell bolts/nuts may should be under the welt, but I find it easier/quicker to get shell off this way. Also, my '30 roadster is set up strictly as a driver..not show. I gave up on 'restoring' and concentrate on having good time using this car.

[Purdy Swoft]

I've never heard of this problem with the 30-31 radiators. The problem is always with 28-29 cars with repro radiators. All 28-29 repro radiators are not bad. I've only had the problem with one 29 radiator . I have and have had other 28-29 cars and trucks with original and older replacement radiators and I had plenty of clearance between the upper hose and the fan. The problem is with the radiators, not the new Snyders fan. I only shortened the fan on my sept 29 because it was the easiest way to solve the problem. Shorter blades rob less power, just another benefit. Smiley face.

[springerpete]

My '29 roadster has the 2 blade aluminum fan ( Tam's ) and a new Brassworks radiator. The top of the fan blade clears the bottom of the radiator tank by 1" It is not near the hose or outlet at all. The top rad. hose upper end & clamp is positioned right over the fan pulley and belt. The pipe on your radiator tank appears to be angled down more than mine. Hope you get it figured out soon.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by LarryinWA

It is a 29 std coupe and my old 4 blade fan worked fine for the 55 years I have had the car. Maybe the fan is wrong. I think the radiator which I have always had on the car may be a replacement and be the problem. I only have 1/8th inch clearance with all of the adjustment that I have been doing. I will take a picture and post it.

Hey Larry,
I now believe that you are correct, in that you state that your radiator 'may be replacement/wrong'...as to use of this aluminum fan.
One of you pictures gives a clue, showing rivets on the inlet attachment.
I dug thru my 'stuff' pile and came up with what IMO is an original '29 radiator....NO rivets....see pictures. Additionally, my top tank AND inlet appears to be COPPER. Check your tank to see if copper/what. Inlet neck looks to be original. I also measured from bottom of end of inlet and is +/- 41/2" ...see if your inlet angle is near this.

Also, check total HEIGHT of radiator core. If core was replaced and maybe too short...that would explain situation,eh ?
Positive news is that aluminum fan is not the problem and you can alter if desired. Also you can go back to fan that 'worked' with this setup (and maybe that's why that fan was used). Finally , you could get stock size rad , if this one was altered inaccurately.
Luck to you and happy 4th to the USA

[LarryinWA]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I think my radiator is a replacement and the easiest solutions are to either put the old 4 blade fan back on, looks in good condition, or have the 2 blade fan modified to fit since it is only a driver. May do the former in case I ever get a new radiator.

[redmodelt]

Could you have the newer style frame with the radiator mounting pads lower. If that is the case then you could add shims under the radiator to raise it up some or even just check to make sure the pad are in place. I would also do as suggested and check how the starting crank lines up with the pulley nut.