Forged Hood Hooks ?

[Ron in Quincy]

The hood hooks on my very early 28 (December 27) do not have the forging mark normally seen, a " circle " with a "M" in the center.

My forged levers have a " D " with an " S " in the center.

Could anyone possible identify the forging plant.

Ron

[Steve Plucker]

MR. RUDE...

Are you refering to those "gold plated" ones that you have????

Pluck

[Ron in Quincy]

Yes Steven,

Ron

[criswellnk]

I know that this list is earlier, and model T, but is the makers mark on you hood hold downs shown someewhere in this list?

[dlshady]

Ron,

I'm not sure who the manufacturer was on these, but I had one in my box of treasures and thought I'd post a photo for you.


Deron

[Ron in Quincy]

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Deron,

Thats the same Trade Mark all 4 of my hood hooks have.

Its strange this trade mark didn't show up on criswellnk list of forge markings; the "D"

with the "F" in the center does show on his list and this is the markings on the

forged throttle and choke levers on the very early Zenith carburetor.

Ron

[wrndln]

Criswellnk's picture is for for connecting rod forgings. I have heard what the S stands for some time ago, but of course I have forgotten (along with many other things). I have about 25 to 30 forged latches and about one third have the S mark on them. I tried a search on the internet and found nothing.
Rusty Nelson

[Charles Reese]

coupla more markings

[Lowell Fast]

How do you remove the 3rd screw on the base of the hood hold-down? The outboard 2 have 3/8 nut under the fender holding them but I cant get to the nut on the 3rd (inboard) screw.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Lowell Fast

How do you remove the 3rd screw on the base of the hood hold-down? The outboard 2 have 3/8 nut under the fender holding them but I cant get to the nut on the 3rd (inboard) screw.

The recessed pocket for the nut should hold the nut from turning, as the 4 nut corners have to dig into the wood just a bit.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy

Yes Steven,

Ron

You should relate the story to everyone...It was a real shocker!

Pluck

[Lowell Fast]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The recessed pocket for the nut should hold the nut from turning, as the 4 nut corners have to dig into the wood just a bit.

Thanks, Tom. My nut must be turning in the wood.

[Ron in Quincy]

Mounting the rear hood hook on the very early A's requires 3 long bolts, there is a matching hole on the frame mount and a matching hole in the running board shield. Of course these bolts each use a lock washer and square nut.

You can verify this, if you have a copy of the January 1, 1928 "Dealers Price List", as it calls for 10 long bolts and 2 short bolts to mount the Hood Hooks.

Only the front wood block could be pre assembled in the very early hood sills; with the change to 2 long bolts on the rear hood hook permitted the hood sill wood blocks and hood hooks to be pre assembled in the hood sills which speeded up production; it also did not require the extra hole in the frame bracket and running board shield.

Ron

[Ron in Quincy]

Btt