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03-29-2024, 09:18 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Campbell,CA, USA
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Revised "Builders Guide"
The new engine "Builders Guide" has been revised and is dated 29 March 2024.
It can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9R...1TSD8Q9DD/view Changes include a statement that deflectors are needed at the bottom of the valve chamber to reduce oil consumption, a statement that time will be saved if the adjustable valve lifters are adjusted to a length of 2.50 inches before assembly, a part number callout for Michigan bearings, a recommendation that a steel crankshaft timing gear should be used, a note regarding the water pump thrust surface in the 6.5 head will be made larger, a description and source of an adapter that enlarges the cork groove in the rear main cap to allow the use of a stock Model B oil pan for those that want to utilize a V-8 transmission. Section 18) has been changed to eliminate Builders that overcharge, demonstrate poor workmanship, and refuse to follow the "Builders Guide". Section 18) also lists new builders and parts suppliers that are competent. Please contact me if you have any questions or want to suggest a change to the next revision of the "Builders Guide". |
03-30-2024, 11:01 AM | #2 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
I too recommend a steel crank gear. I broke a brand new cast iron gear while racing at Bonneville. An aluminum cam gear is very adequate for any street engine, I use a bronze gear for racing.
I recommend adjusting the valves with only the crank and cam installed, it lets the engine rotate much easier. |
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03-30-2024, 11:34 AM | #3 | |
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Location: Ohio
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Quote:
When I bought my last engine your engine was not ready yet. I wish I had one of yours. I tell people that your engine will last longer than any of the guys in our club will last. |
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03-30-2024, 01:28 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Santa Ana, Cal 92704
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Where do you get this steel crank gear?
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03-30-2024, 02:01 PM | #5 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
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03-30-2024, 04:41 PM | #6 |
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Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
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Has there been any issues with the roller spring clip for controlling oil coming out of the holes? By the way, Thank you.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
03-30-2024, 09:19 PM | #7 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Campbell,CA, USA
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Quote:
Thanks for your question. I am not aware of any problems with the deflectors. A few people have mentioned bending the bottom of the roller spring clips for better retention. John Lampl will be in China in April and deflectors will be discussed. |
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03-31-2024, 06:25 AM | #8 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Talk to your friend Ted Kafer. He came up with a nice design for the deflectors. They can be added without removing the pan. The clips for the roller latches are probably not the ideal shape. If you are going to make your own, that opens up the possibility for a new shape.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 03-31-2024 at 06:31 AM. |
03-31-2024, 10:21 AM | #9 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
I can’t visualize where these go and missed why they are necessary.
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03-31-2024, 12:18 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
From Dan McGearchen, [email protected]. Also they were standard in original Model A's. Dan makes aluminum and bronze gears as well as other things for our engines.
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03-31-2024, 01:12 PM | #11 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
For Bruce:
There have been reports of too much oil getting splashed into the valve chamber on the Burtz engine which causes too much oil burning.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
04-01-2024, 05:14 AM | #12 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Are they baffles for diverting the oil jet?
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04-01-2024, 12:28 PM | #13 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Too much oil gets splashed into the valve chamber. The oil comes from the rods throwing oil after the bearing are lubricated and from the 4 oil trays that the rods dip into. The rods are pressure lubricated but oil still fills up the trays.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
04-01-2024, 05:05 PM | #14 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Oil gets flung up through those holes? I'm sure you're right, I just wouldn't have thought it. Are stock blocks affected similarly or do the extra mains have the effect?
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04-01-2024, 05:42 PM | #15 |
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Stock blocks do not have this problem (they have other problems). The stock block does not have the 4 large holes in the bottom of the valve chamber.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
04-02-2024, 05:19 AM | #16 |
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Location: VA
Posts: 1,433
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Re: Revised "Builders Guide"
Thanks!
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