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09-17-2017, 07:40 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: upstate NY near Mass border
Posts: 789
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Metal hardening
Years ago i made a tool for removal of the tie-rod ends. Looks like a big screwdriver end welded to a socket. The problem was that it bent rather easily in use. I therefore bought one that was 1/2 inch drive and it has worked well. Now i am trying to remove a similar type end on a shock arm on my willys so i have cut down the original one to fit the smaller shock arm but i am still concerned about the tool bending. Will heating to near red and clenching in oil harden it? Or is water better? Or am i wrong in trying either method of making it not bend? I know that there are barners on here that know this kind of stuff. Thanks in advance. Jack
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09-17-2017, 07:58 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate South Carolina
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Re: Metal hardening
You are going to get different opinions, so here's mine:
The trouble with hardening a tool like that is you make it brittle, and it will break more easily, instead of bending. As far as being able to harden it, its going to depend on how much carbon it has in it to start with. I'm no metallurgist, I know just enough to be dangerous. I would use the heat on the part itself to get it loose. Good Luck |
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09-17-2017, 08:20 AM | #3 |
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Location: Middlebury,Connecticut
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Re: Metal hardening
Different steels harden differently. Some are water hardened (you probably don't have that) some are air hardened ( you probably don't have that ether). Some are oil hardened ( this is most likely what you have). some will only case harden and some will not harden well with any method. The temperature you heat it to is important. Also you must anneal it or draw it down after you harden it or it will be brittle and break easily. The draw temperature is also important. You are probably better off letting someone who knows how to do this handle it. If you have any friends that are tool makers, they will know how to do it.
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09-17-2017, 08:43 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Re: Metal hardening
Jack, you can buy a tool that will work at a Lowes or any hardware, probably. This tool is used too install the big "non-reversing" screws for security screen door installations. Phil
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09-17-2017, 10:05 AM | #5 | |
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Re: Metal hardening
Quote:
Drag link sockets come in different sizes, shop around, you may find the size you need.
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09-17-2017, 10:30 AM | #6 |
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Re: Metal hardening
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09-17-2017, 06:55 PM | #7 |
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Re: Metal hardening
From what I've learned, heating and quenching in oil might give you a THIN layer of case hardening but it will not affect the strength of the metal deeper down. Expect no more than about 0.015" of hardening.
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09-17-2017, 07:18 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Re: Metal hardening
As someone said, There are steels that are air hardening, water Hardening and oil hardening. Oil is the most common and after that, water. For instance a file is water (Brine) hardening. f you had an old file you wanted to make something out of, you'd have to anneal it first, The when the part is made, you can re-harden it by heating and quenching it in a bucket of brine. Hold the part! Don't drop it in! It will talk to you! If you think it's going to crack, it probably is, pull it out of the brine! Then after 10-15 seconds, plunge it back in.
Then again, it may be Cold or Hot Rolled Steel and can't be hardened normally. If it's possible, try forging the part. Then Case harden the part. A good product for case hardening is "Casenit". Simply heat the parted hot. Then plunge in to the Casenit powder till you get a good covering. Then heat the part to a yellow, almost white hot. Let the steel absorb the carbon for a while. Then quench into cold water, you should hear a loud pop. That means it worked. You've done all you can do! For steel I identification, If you have a grinder, try several steels on it to see the spark pattern. Files are the most distinctive with a fine, feathery spark. Other steel will have a long heavier spark. Good luck! Terry |
09-17-2017, 09:45 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
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Re: Metal hardening
If your factory made socket (even ground down) feels like it will break, your shock arm is rusted tight. Heat it red, let it cool and spray with real penetrating oil like PB Blaster (don't waste time with worthless WD-40). If still won't budge, heat the outer edge red again and try turning while hot. Check ebay for sockets, too.
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