1928 Generator Question

[dmarr35]

I purchased a generator but I'm not sure about the wiring. 2wires come out of the generator 1 is connected to the field coil and the back of the cut out. they have the other wire that comes out of the generator that is connected from a brush connected to the front of the cut out small screw. Is this right and do I connect the truck wire to the small srew for charging? Thank You for ant help.


Don

[Kurt in NJ]

It would be good to have a picture, i suspect you have a later generator, the wire from the brush should go to the "arm" position on the cutout, the wire from the field winding goes to ground --the cutout mounting screw--generators made, and some rebuilt in the mid 30s had the external field ground wire for use with a 2 rate cutout ---it is oval, much larger than the round cutout, almost 2 cutouts together.

The wires to the terminal box, and the light switch connect to the "batt" terminal on the cutout.

Tom will probably comment with pictures of the "powerhouse" type of generator used in 28, that generator just has a metal post for the cutout connection.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Kurt has it right and I've seen a few of these later generators on Model A's. People used whatever was handy in the good old days.

If you have a 1928 to July 1929, to be original you could find the POWERHOUSE generator to use. IMHO the powerhouse is the best generator made.



Here's a typical 1928 powerhouse with the tension bracket and cutout mounted on the side. The tension bracket wasn't needed and was dropped late in 1928. Some of the 28's had the cutout mounted on the side and some had it mounted on the top of the generator.

[dmarr35]

Tom that is not the one I have I will send pictures Thank You

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dmarr35

Tom that is not the one I have I will send pictures Thank You

Right, your's is the common long shape and has a slight bevel on the aluminum end plate, and 2 wires coming through a hole in the case.

I was just showing the typical shape of the powerhouse generator that was used for your car, in case you weren't familure with it, and wanted to find one.



Here's a picture of the typical aluminum end plate. Notice that the tension clips for the adjustable brush are held in place by rivets rather than screws like the Model A uses. This picture shows the electronic voltage regulator I make to fit in place of the adjustable brush. Some of the aluminum end plates have cooling holes, as shown in this picture.

[dmarr35]

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Here some pictures of the generator the red wire comes off a brush to one side of the cut off switch and other black comes from a field. Do you think these are correct? and can I take them off the switch and connect them to a battery to see if the generator works?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Those wires are not correct.

The wire comong from the brush goes to the cutout input terminal, which is sometimes marked "ARM".

The wire coming from the field is grounded to the generator case by placing it under the cutout mounting screw.

[dmarr35]

The red wire is from the brush and I think it is on thr right termanal since the other one says GEN under so the black from field should be grounded and not on GEN of the cutout switch? Thank You Tom can you tell me a way to test we have the engine out currently.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dmarr35

The red wire is from the brush and I think it is on thr right termanal since the other one says GEN under so the black from field should be grounded and not on GEN of the cutout switch? Thank You Tom can you tell me a way to test we have the engine out currently.

If you have a spare electric motor bolted to a board, or clamped into a vice you can spin the generator and check for voltage out. Be aware that when the generator ISN"T connected to a car battery the voltage can reach 40 volts and if left this high for more than a few seconds, it can burn out the generator.

If you connect a battery to the generator (+ to the case and - to the output stud) the generator shouls spin, like a slow turning electric motor.