The Ford Barn - View Single Post

BrianM · 04-09-2013, 09:24 PM

I'm sure "machine girl" must be amazed by all the suggestions. I'm a relative newbie myself, but am a retired electrical engineer. My take is as follows:

I like originality as much as possible. However, as I often have to drive at night (like coming home from all our club meetings), I must admit that the stock lights were a bit anemic. I changed to 50/32 cp headlights & cranked up the brushes, but soon realized that I was pushing the generator beyond it's capability. Thanks to Tom for pointing out that the long generator is only good for about 12 amps continuously. Even dropping back to 32/32 cp headlights would put me over the 12 amps, when taillights & ignition are figured in. Besides, I feel that the 3 cp taillights are rather dim, considering that the driver behind me is probably preoccupied with his/her cell phone.

Having to continually adjust the third brush, or put up with excessive battery charge & frequent bulb failures, is also an issue. Again, I salute Tom for his internal voltage regulator, but meaning no disrespect whatever, it isn't original, although it is nicely out of sight.

Re bulbs, I like the originality of plain incandescent bulbs. The light from halogens & LED taillights just doesn't appeal to me personally, nor do the very high prices!

So, my solution is to stick with 6 volts, positive ground, but use a low current alternator. As I wince when I look at modern alternators in an A, I went with a Wagner 40 amp unit, which looks a lot more like a generator with it's fan & black painted housing. Why only 40 amps? Consider that the wiring was designed for a generator of less than 20 amps...And I have NO plans for AC, GPS, phones, nor MP3's.

I use the 30 amp repro ammeter, so the stock look is retained. The usual 30 amp safety fuse works fine. I did find two VERY nice wiring harnesses from Sacramento Vintage Ford using heavier gauge wires (12 instead of 14). One goes from the terminal box to starter and generator, the other is the instrument panel harness. Together they are only 20 bucks and look totally correct.

I use 50/32 cp headlights, 10 cp taillights & parking lights, and 32 cp brakelights. I'm amazed how bright all the lights are with full voltage on them, and I don't have to worry about moving brushes or overcharging.

That's my solution; works for me.

04-09-2013, 09:24 PM	#77
BrianM Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Gwinn, MI Posts: 46	Re: generator or alternator I'm sure "machine girl" must be amazed by all the suggestions. I'm a relative newbie myself, but am a retired electrical engineer. My take is as follows: I like originality as much as possible. However, as I often have to drive at night (like coming home from all our club meetings), I must admit that the stock lights were a bit anemic. I changed to 50/32 cp headlights & cranked up the brushes, but soon realized that I was pushing the generator beyond it's capability. Thanks to Tom for pointing out that the long generator is only good for about 12 amps continuously. Even dropping back to 32/32 cp headlights would put me over the 12 amps, when taillights & ignition are figured in. Besides, I feel that the 3 cp taillights are rather dim, considering that the driver behind me is probably preoccupied with his/her cell phone. Having to continually adjust the third brush, or put up with excessive battery charge & frequent bulb failures, is also an issue. Again, I salute Tom for his internal voltage regulator, but meaning no disrespect whatever, it isn't original, although it is nicely out of sight. Re bulbs, I like the originality of plain incandescent bulbs. The light from halogens & LED taillights just doesn't appeal to me personally, nor do the very high prices! So, my solution is to stick with 6 volts, positive ground, but use a low current alternator. As I wince when I look at modern alternators in an A, I went with a Wagner 40 amp unit, which looks a lot more like a generator with it's fan & black painted housing. Why only 40 amps? Consider that the wiring was designed for a generator of less than 20 amps...And I have NO plans for AC, GPS, phones, nor MP3's. I use the 30 amp repro ammeter, so the stock look is retained. The usual 30 amp safety fuse works fine. I did find two VERY nice wiring harnesses from Sacramento Vintage Ford using heavier gauge wires (12 instead of 14). One goes from the terminal box to starter and generator, the other is the instrument panel harness. Together they are only 20 bucks and look totally correct. I use 50/32 cp headlights, 10 cp taillights & parking lights, and 32 cp brakelights. I'm amazed how bright all the lights are with full voltage on them, and I don't have to worry about moving brushes or overcharging. That's my solution; works for me.