The Ford Barn - View Single Post

cabrioletgalaxie · 09-27-2020, 08:46 PM

Both new comments and suggestions appreciated. The only rubber fuel line is the 12" connection between the engine end of the steel fuel line and the fuel pump. This was new and I cut a section out to install the inline, clear plastic fuel filter. I will start and run the car again and even try pinching the ends of those rubber lines to see if they are sold and collapse. I have inspected the carb several times and tempted to do it again looking for some crud that gets lodged and then dislodged causing the intermittent problem.
Good idea to drain the new fuel tank through a filter. I was shocked to see those silver and black specks in my sediment bowl. Draining is a good way inspect what's in the tank and should eliminate that.
Ignition switch is new, I replaced it when we found it finger burning hot after my first break down when it wouldn't start. The 3 brass contacts were blackened. We also found there was no ballast resistor in the system despite looking everywhere under the dash. We know the ignition likes 4 V and not 6V as it heats up as we found.
Coil was original rebuilt with new components by the coils guy down south, forget his name right now. Condenser was new. Checked as many of the wires under the hood looking for loose or broken connections and found none.
I agree I don't want to suddenly fix it without knowing the problem as I would still worry about while driving it.
Currently I can't get it to die again on me while in the garage or driveway despite running at high idle for 3
20 mins or driving it in the driveway. We had it in my mechanic's friend's shop for 4 hours and found the batt cable issue and replaced it and the problem with the voltage regulator which we replaced. The cable replacement allows the car to turn over much faster when starting. And the new voltage regulator now functions so it shows a charge on the ammeter.
When it was running we could hold the plug wire off the plug for 1/2 and the spark with jump that distance. What we don't know if we have that when it bearing starts and then dies.
So I agree testing is important.

09-27-2020, 08:46 PM	#15
cabrioletgalaxie Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 377	Re: hunting a ghost problem in my '47 Both new comments and suggestions appreciated. The only rubber fuel line is the 12" connection between the engine end of the steel fuel line and the fuel pump. This was new and I cut a section out to install the inline, clear plastic fuel filter. I will start and run the car again and even try pinching the ends of those rubber lines to see if they are sold and collapse. I have inspected the carb several times and tempted to do it again looking for some crud that gets lodged and then dislodged causing the intermittent problem. Good idea to drain the new fuel tank through a filter. I was shocked to see those silver and black specks in my sediment bowl. Draining is a good way inspect what's in the tank and should eliminate that. Ignition switch is new, I replaced it when we found it finger burning hot after my first break down when it wouldn't start. The 3 brass contacts were blackened. We also found there was no ballast resistor in the system despite looking everywhere under the dash. We know the ignition likes 4 V and not 6V as it heats up as we found. Coil was original rebuilt with new components by the coils guy down south, forget his name right now. Condenser was new. Checked as many of the wires under the hood looking for loose or broken connections and found none. I agree I don't want to suddenly fix it without knowing the problem as I would still worry about while driving it. Currently I can't get it to die again on me while in the garage or driveway despite running at high idle for 3 20 mins or driving it in the driveway. We had it in my mechanic's friend's shop for 4 hours and found the batt cable issue and replaced it and the problem with the voltage regulator which we replaced. The cable replacement allows the car to turn over much faster when starting. And the new voltage regulator now functions so it shows a charge on the ammeter. When it was running we could hold the plug wire off the plug for 1/2 and the spark with jump that distance. What we don't know if we have that when it bearing starts and then dies. So I agree testing is important.