[old31]

Originally Posted by callcoy

You need to try the alignment tool again, loosen the cover, slide the disk around after loosening, lineup with the pilot bearing and torque the cover evenly to spec's. I prefer to leave or install the transmission in the car to avoid having to removing the headlihts and their cross bar.

With the trans and clutch housing in place, you did check out the ujoint and lube it didn't you? Place a floor jack under the trans and jack it up, maybe even higher than you think. Prepare the engine for install, a helper would be a good idea at this stage, mine is 90 and shorter then me so he works the bottom, doesn't like a creeper so cardboard is his choice.

Prepare the engine for install, the two of us have done 3 so far this year, cut the heads off two 3/8" x 2 1/2 to 3" bolts, clean the raw ends and maybe cut screwdriver slots cross the ends so you can screw these out when done with them. Screw these alignment studs into the clutch housing at approx. 10 & 2 o'clock. Lift the engine without the starter and direct it into the engine bay, you don't want to fight the interference with the steering column. All of this is done without removing headlights and bar.

With helper working the bottom to give you feed back, alignment pins started in the bellhousing and adjusting the trans height to obtain a bellhousing to flywheelhousing parallel condition, a little pressure to the rear and maybe a twist of the flywheel to align the main shaft to the clutch disk the engine will slip into position.

But wait what if the peskey frame is narrower than rear engine mounts, you will need a frame spreader, we don't even attempt an install without one, maybe your club or a member has one. It is your project don't let it control you, take your time and do it right.

Spoken like a guy that has been to this rodeo.