[Terry Burtz, Calif]

Thanks to everyone interested in this project which should result in a new Model A Ford engine that looks totally stock on the exterior, but has 1970's technology on the interior. Interest in this project has generated lots of questions that I have answered by Email. What follows is a few of the more interesting questions followed by my answers. The questions and comments are in italics and unedited with the exception that I removed names.



Thanks Terry for the update. The new block sounds good and I am looking forward to getting it. I can handle the rest.

My “A” was built in June of 29. Even though the engine is original to the car as I knew both the original owner and the owner who sold me the car so I know it was not changed. The engine was made in October of 28. I would have to look at the stamp again to know it build location as I have forgotten. These blocks had a casting problem that deflected the water flow just a tiny bit. This was corrected in the later 29 blocks. Both the 28 and 29 castings had a high nickel content to rectify some of the heating problems and the shorter radiator. One of the solutions is to grind down the casting at the water inlet and this has helped about 50% of those I know of. Ford changed the water jacket casting in the middle to late 29 and increased the radiator height and installed a standard 3 row in the cars and 4 row in the trucks. The great race is generally run with the late 29 engine because the higher nickel content provides higher cooling and the block holds up better in general. I have a Brass Works 11 fins per inch and am pressurized. Not a perfect solution but getting me by until I change engines or try to trim the molding to recommended specs.

As you block is built to the later drawings, it will work great and I don’t expect any heating problems. I was going to build up another block but decided to wait for yours as it fixes everything and more. Thank you for doing this. For those of us that truly love the Model A, it is a real God Send.


Ford's design for cooling water is not very good. Cool water should enter the cylinder block between cylinders 3 and 4 instead of 2 and 3. The water pump should be located low so that it pushes cool water into the cylinder block instead of sucking hot water out at the end of the head. The water jacket should extend lower to the bottom of the cylinders. An even better cooling path would be to supply cool water near cylinders 1 and 4 and have hot water flow from the head between cylinders 2 and 3.

Since any of the above changes would alter the external appearance, they are not part of the "new engine" design.

During Model A production, Ford changed the deflector just inside the cool water entrance on the side of the cylinder block, and the "new engine" has the latest design deflector.



Wow, you just blow me away with your tenacity and perfection for design. Thank you.

I need a new engine for my 29 Tudor which I have tolerated the slow overheating problems inherent from when the car was new I am sure. It is a great and reliable engine with some TLC I have driven it for 40 K miles. I am waiting for your engine as I was convinced when I talked to you in San Diego a few years ago this was the right way to go. I am so excited about your work.

Everything is what I could hope for and more. Let us know when you need an order – I am ready. Can this be a short or full block? Don’t have to answer; just something to think about as a full block replacement would be good for me as at my age, I can change engines, but no longer have space or tools to do much rebuilding. I am ready either way. I have a “B” head, but has been resurfaced more than once I am sure. If the pistons are flat with the top it will work. The head has developed a crack, but does not interfere with anything or performance at this time. This is the reason I asked about the head. Will you have a recommended head or build one as well? I know this will be answered as well after the engine is tested and you can see what works best. So many great possibilities. Can’t wait to go touring with this engine. A drive is 100 to 200 miles. A tour for me is generally 400 to 800 miles. My engine is also inserted and I can drive 60 mph or slightly higher for a very short distance to handle traffic entering a freeway. I normally drive between 50 and 53 as that is my sweet spot. Even so, in warm weather it slowly heats so I have to drop to 40 or 45 to allow it to cool. My engine water baffling is the problem. I had it scoped and it is clear of any debris and the walls are clean. My car is original, so I still have an original front end and it is not designed for high speeds. More than you want to know. Your engine will solve all my problems. Thanks again.


The "new engine" consists of a cylinder block, crankshaft, and 4 connecting rods. All small hardware (dowel pins, studs, nuts, thrust washers, connecting rod bolts, and woodruff key) is included. Cam bushings will be installed in the cylinder block, and the small end of the connecting rods will have bushings installed.

To make a short block, you will need to supply a camshaft, lifters, valves, valve guides, timing gears, oil pump and oil pump/distributor drive gear, pistons, rings, and bearing inserts. Since there are several varieties of the above-mentioned parts, you or your engine builder can build exactly what you want. All interfaces where parts attach are identical to stock so everything will fit.

The "new engine" cylinder block will be machined to the Ford drawing (A-6015) that has the pistons protruding .032 inches above the top of the cylinder block. If your head has been surfaced numerous times, the recess in the head may need to be machined deeper.



I have been following the progress of the new motor for a few years now and I’m very excited, great work! I can’t seem to find a previous discussion about the weight of the new motor with the new crankshaft and other parts. You expect it to be a heavier motor than the original, correct? By how much roughly?


Thanks for your question and interest in this project.

The new engine parts will be heavier than the weight of the original Model A engine parts.

Regarding the cylinder block, I thickened the left side water jacket wall by 1/32 inch to make it more resistant to freeze cracking, added material between the exhaust ports and cylinders to make that area less prone to cracking, added 2 intermediate webs to support the 5 main crankshaft, added bosses for the main oil galley and all feeds to main and camshaft bearings, added material to the rear main area to accommodate the larger 2-inch diameter bearing, and made all 5 main bearing caps larger because the bearings are larger and to make them stronger. I will guess that the new cylinder block and main bearing caps will be close to weigh around 20 pounds heavier than an original cylinder block with main caps. All of these changes will not be visible from the exterior.

The new engine 5 main crankshaft with 8 counterweights, larger bearings, and extended flywheel mounting flange for the rear main seal will weigh just over 60 pounds. This weight is close to the weight of 4 cylinder racing engine crankshafts with similar displacement engines that raced in the 30's, 40's, and 50's.

The connecting rods are also heavier for strength and to accommodate the 2-inch diameter big end bearing, and they will weigh about 1.7 pounds each.



Thanks for the update.
Two questions is the new engine going to have a full pressurized oil system and is proposed to have larger intake valves?


Yes, pressurized oil is supplied to an oil galley that runs the full length of the cylinder block.

From this galley, oil is fed to the main and camshaft bearings.

The crankshaft is drilled, and oil will be fed from the main bearings to the connecting rod bearings.

Intake valve ports are stock and can be enlarged by the engine builder if desired. Intake ports are streamlined for better flow.



I'm liking it Terry! Make sure the block has enough material for the main brg. studs won't pull out, I've seen that happen on Model B racing engines when std. length studs were substituted for the stock bolts. The result is disaster!


All studs and nuts will be the equivalent of Grade 8 hardware.

Stud threads will be rolled (cold-formed) instead of cut for better finish and grain direction.

Main bearings 2 and 4 will use 7/16 dia. studs that are UNC and UNF. The UNC end will engage the cylinder block by just over 2 diameters (7/8 inch).

Main bearing 5 (rear main) will be retained with 1/2 inch dia studs, and again engagement into the cylinder block is just over 2 diameters (1 inch).

Main bearings 1 and 3 (front and center) will have studs that are 1/2 UNF at the top (like original for castellated nut) and reduced to 7/16 inch dia. before the cylinder block/main bearing cap interface.

To summarize, 8, 7/16 - 20 UNF 12 pt nuts (McMaster Carr 90759A450) and 2, 1/2 - 20 UNF 12 pt nuts (McMaster Carr 90759A550) are used to retain the main bearing caps. All threads are Class 3.



Hi Terry, Having played with A engines and their head gaskets. ( I used to make commercial annealed copper head gaskets in various thicknesses) Have you thought about having the block 'figure of eight' machined for round copper wire inserts into the block. No more gasket problems! Looks like the project is proceeding smoothly.


Yes, I have given it thought. In fact, I have a HAL DOHC engine that is 5 main and based on a Model A cylinder block. With DOHC, it has a circular groove for wire around the cylinders. No head gasket is used because the water passages are sealed with Permatex #2.

I consider a wire groove something that a performance engine builder would add because the groove configuration would be different for an L head, F head, or DOHC.

The "new" engine will have all stock interfaces with no groove.

Thanks for the question.



Hello Terry

I’m pleased to see that the engine project is still underway.

Early 1928 Model A camshafts had 5 bearings, while later Model A camshafts had 3. Will your 5-main engine use 3 or 5 bearing camshafts?


The new cylinder block will have 5 camshaft bearings with bushings.

The #1, #3, and #5 camshaft bushings will have holes in them for pressure lube from the main oil galley.

A 3 or 5 bearing camshaft can be used.

Camshaft bushings #2 and #4 will not have oil holes and the bushings will block off the oil passages.

If a 5 bearing camshaft is used, the engine builder will drill holes in camshaft bushings #2 and #4 to open the passages for oil pressure.



Hi Terry
It is encouraging to hear about the great progress you are making on the new engine. You did a little seminar for me at our CCRG Jamboree here in Visalia several years ago but a lot of things have happened since then.
I know it is kinda far in the future to plan anything ... especially for us older folks ... but Visalia is going to have the central California Jamboree again in April 9 - 10 in 2021 and would love to have you do a show and tell about your new engine. You might even be in production of he engines by then and have engines running and taking orders. I sure hope so since several people in our chapter who are very interested in your progress and are even looking for a good engine. I have re-built several engines with inserts etc. but they don't have the advanced technology and dependability you are incorporating in your new engines.
Let me know if this is something you would be interested in putting on your calendar and we can also plan for our agenda. As before we will be happy to provide you with a room and meals for the event.


Thank you for the invitation.
I would love to do a presentation at the next Jamboree, however, I am hesitant to commit at this time because I don't know if I'll have parts to display.
We expect to have castings towards the end of January 2020, and machined parts in the middle of March 2020.
If the schedule holds, yes, I will be there.
We need to talk again at the end of Jan 2020 when I will have a better idea of the hardware schedule.



Hi Terry,
Great work and thank you for what you are doing.
Will one be able to use sae size bolts ( I. e. Oil pan ) on the new block?


Although all hole locations are dimensioned in millimeters, the threads will be UNC or UNF depending on location.

Some threads like the oil pan attachment bolts will be Class 2 (looser fit), and some like the flywheel attachment bolts will be Class 3 (tighter fit).

To make a long story short, no metric threads are used and any fastener used in an original Model A engine will work with the new engine.