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There are people here that most likely know more than me about brakes but I thought I would comment ,In picture 16 you can see the lower wedge sitting low with the eye showing ,by adjusting the top adjuster the shoe s will slide down and squash the wedge so it will pop up ,this may bring the clevis forward maybe more than 15 % so the rod has to be let out. So its a balancing exercise between the top and bottom adjustment ,If you drums are worn and lining to thin or the A2042 adjuster links are chewed of the ends then you may run out of adjustment .The same applies to the king pin rod if its to short the clevis will be less than 15 % ,you can add weld to these that can compensate or get the thicker linings or new drums .If the king pin brake shaft binds up in the head a 3% bend can be put in the top of the rod ,Final adjustments are done on the road with wheels on the ground and by checking the drum heat with your hand , the front should be hotter than the rears .If the rears are to tight they will cancel out the action on the front were you want most of the braking force .All parts a precision machined and I have lengthened the top adjusters 3mm so it helps installation but with no hex head to keep costs down , so you will need to use pliers .These are just a few tips .Ted