Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg
A couple years ago I passed up a nice looking 1929 tank for $75. I just didn't need it, but if I needed a tank, I'd rather pay up to a couple hundred for a clean tank over having one cut open and coated.
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The real issue is, ...how do you know if you are getting a good clean tank?
Many of the problem tanks we see have what appears to be a good floor but are rusted up in the corners of the top, -oftentimes behind the baffles. These are tanks that looked all nice & shiny by peering inside thru the gas filler and the gas gauge flange. Sometimes you can stick your finger inside of the gas filler neck and rub the perimeter around the top to feel for any rust however sometimes the soldered joint extends out a little further than your finger can reach.
Also remember that a tank that was stored ½ full of fuel will preserve the floor yet leaving the roof metal bare and exposed, --thus causing the rust. Sloshing fuel while driving removes the fine rust creating sediment which the now bare metal created after the rust has been washed away then rusts more which creates more sediment.
It is worth noting that if a tank is restored properly by cutting it open, it really is not a big issue to repeat the process some 10 years down the road should some of the present-day sealer fail sometime down the road.