[James Rogers]

Fender washers won't work, the hole is too small and generally, too thin. I have removed many by lots of methods. The method I like best is to weld a 1/2" flat washer to the broken stud after I heat the area surrounding the stud. I have found the block will wick the heat out of the weld and it won't hold. Heating the block at the stud cures this. After the washer is welded, I weld a head nut to it on three sides and flood the area with my favorite penetrant. An impact will usually bring the stud right out. Last week I was brought an engine from a modern with a broken bolt in a recessed hole. The biggest problem with this engine other than it being broken down in the recess and having a broken "easy out" in it was the block was aluminum so, no welding. I tried several different drill bits with no success. This was attributed to the piece of broken easy out. As a last ditch effort, I decided to see what a 3/8" carbide end mill would do. Some careful drilling with the end mill and the top of the bolt began to flatten and the easy out began to cut. I cut it till I felt the bolt move and checked it till I saw the easy out was gone. I drilled it with a starter drill and then a smaller bit and used a large easy out to just remove it. Didn't even scuff the threads and the engine is now back in service. You just have to be willing to use anything at hand to try and get the stud to move. Just be careful and I don't recommend using easy outs, they cause more work and trouble than they fix.