Quote:
Originally Posted by JayChicago
I'm just an amateur, but I have to speak up here, because I don't believe that's possible. That is correct value for a turning distributor, but not when working in the garage with engine stopped. You need to make that distinction when giving that advice.
When I first got my '40 with a no-spark problem, got a fresh Skip-rebuilt coil, Bubba distributor, and Bubba-built condenser. I then tried everything to get the 3.5+ volts to the coil that I had read on forums. Tried five different original resistors. With engine stopped, full current flow, all the resistors produced a voltage drop of 3.0 volts (plus or minus a few tenths, more as they get hot). Finally concluded that with a 6.3 volt battery, is impossible to get more than 3.3 volts to the coil. The info I had read on the forums is just wrong! And my engine started and ran fine with 2.8 volts to the coil.
Then later with engine turning, points open 20% of the time, voltage at the coil will jump up. Duration of points open there is no current and therefore no voltage drop, so will get full battery voltage 20% of the time. Meter will show the higher averaged voltage. Only with engine turning will the voltage at the coil be that 3.8 to 4.2 volts.
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Jay I think you need a new volt meter. With only 2.8 volts it will not start.
When you engauge the starter the amp load of the starter will drop the 2.8
volts even lower. G.M.