Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulletwagon
Tom,
Thanks for the follow up. Would like to know exactly how you fixed your rod bearing issue.
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Hi,
I took some pictures that illustrate my approach to fixing the noisy rod. Number 4 rod was the culprit and was very loose, like .025 loose in places.
However, I lucked out as the crank journal was still like new, and the rod babbitt surfaces were in good shape. I noticed the engine had been assembled with many shop-worn nuts and bolts, and sure-enough one of the rod nuts was beginning to strip, which may have compounded the problem, however, it seems to me that the original setup was too loose to begin with.
Here's a picture of the cap...
no4A.jpg
I was concerned about uneven journal wear so I took plastigage readings at top and bottom, and with the crank positioned at each side.
Here's some pictures...
no4B.JPG
no4c.jpg
no4d.jpg
no4e.jpg
no4f.jpg
no4g.jpg
The crank journal is good from all directions.
The clearances around the crankshaft are now between .001 to .0015 with one small spot area over that. Not bad.
Finding nuts that afforded the correct torque that would line up with the cotter pin hole was a chore, and I had to do some lapping to get the right nut height for placing some of the cotter pins.
I was fighting the shims all the way...some were stuck together and not usable...good thing I was mostly pulling shims. I also had ordered two sets of castle nuts, one from CWMoss, and one set from Mike's, unfortunately, the set from Mike's was unusable as the nuts were too short (below the cotter pin hole). Here's the kind of shim set Bratton's sent me:
no4last.jpg
You can tell a loose rod from the side play! I had two, number 3 was just a bit out of spec' but the side play was a giveaway.
Ready for the model B pan gasket...should get it tomorrow.
no4i.jpg
Tom